Posts by Roberta Fabbrocino
The Fast Fashion Industry is Causing a Public Health Crisis in Ghana
 

Health Crisis in Ghana Due to Used Clothing’s Toxic Textiles

A new report by Greenpeace Africa and Germany showed how fast fashion inflicts ramified and devastating consequences on the people and the planet through the global second-hand clothing trade. The report titled "Fast Fashion, Slow Poison: The Toxic Textile Crisis in Ghana" focuses on this West African country and highlights the environmental and public health damage this unsustainable sector is causing in Ghana.  

As the second largest final destination of used clothing from Europe by volume, Ghana is inundated with about 15 million used clothing items every week. Much of it is from fast fashion brands and chiefly made from synthetic fibers. Half of these clothes reach Ghana with no resale value, and they are tossed out by the stallholders of Kantamanto, the capital's largest second-hand market and one of the biggest on the planet. From there, these low-quality used garments end up in several informal dumpsites in Accra or burnt as fuel in public washhouses. 

The team behind this Greenpeace investigation collected air and soot samples from three of these public baths. These samples revealed that several hazardous chemical substances, including carcinogenic ones such as benzene or PAHs, contaminate the air and surfaces of these washhouses. This contamination jeopardizes the local community's health, which is exposed to dangerous chemicals at levels far above European safety standards.

The impact of fashion overproduction and overconsumption doesn't end there. Through infrared tests, the Greenpeace team discovered that a significant amount of this textile waste is made of petroleum-based synthetic fibers.  Most of these synthetic fibers were mixed with other fibers into blended fabrics that would have prevented European recycling. 

These discarded garments end up in the waterways with countless repercussions for local ecosystems. Because these garments are often made of non-biodegradable fabrics, they are bound to release microplastics and other chemicals into the environment. The clothes amassed in dumpsites are also threatening the local fauna. Their toxic leachate reaches not only the soil, groundwater, and agricultural lands but also lagoons and the Densu wetlands, a Ramsar Site located in the Greater Accra Region. 

The influx of imported and second-hand clothing permitted by trade liberalization policies had also hindered the growth of the "Made in Africa" clothing sector, which before that, was growing in the 1960s and 70s. Despite the many challenges, this industry still has significant potential for sustainable development that benefits the local communities and economies. 

On the other hand, fast fashion, with its mass production and low-quality unsustainable clothing, has changed the face of the second-hand clothing business in Ghana. The environmental injustice taking place in the country goes to show how fast fashion and the dominant production models of the West are an expression of the neocolonialist system that allows these Global North companies to pollute and do so without paying any consequences. The United Kingdom is the largest exporter of second-hand clothes to Ghana, followed by China, with the top 10 manufacturers of unsold garments from the second-hand market being fast fashion brands such as H&M, Primark, and Zara.

Given their responsibility for the ongoing crisis, Greenpeace stressed the need for Global North and its regulators to look at the evidence of the effect of fast fashion and overconsumption in second-hand clothing importer countries and develop solutions in tandem with them. In addition, extended Producer Responsibility agreements that follow the Polluter Pays Principle can also ensure the producers are held accountable for the impact of their products at all points of their life cycle.

«The evidence we have collected shows that the fast fashion industry is not just a fashion issue—it's a public health crisis. The clothes we tested are literally poisoning the people of Accra. » said the report author, Sam Quashie-Idun.«The situation in Ghana reflects a neocolonial mindset where the Global North profits from overproduction and waste, while countries like Ghana pay the price. It's time for a global treaty that addresses this imbalance and protects communities from the harm caused by fast fashion. » added Quashie-Idun, who also highlighted the importance of local solutions. «The Ghanaian government together with the international community should support the development of a sustainable local textile industry in Ghana, which can alleviate the waste problem while providing economic opportunities. »


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


MAKE SURE TO PIN THE PHOTO BELOW TO SAVE THIS POST FOR LATER!


WANT TO FIND MORE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS?

The Brand Directory features hundreds of sustainable brands approved by us!

We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


RELATED READING YOU MAY ALSO ENJOY:

 
Roberta FabbrocinoComment
9 Organic Cotton Pajama Brands For Ultimate Comfort in 2024
 

Image: Pact 

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliated; we may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. We only feature brands that align with our values and contribute to a better fashion industry. Thank you for supporting these brands - and us!

The Best Organic Cotton Pajamas

We all spend (hopefully) eight hours a day sleeping in our beds, so being mindful of what we wear when we sleep can benefit our well-being, as investing in pajamas means investing in the quality of your sleep.

What factors should we consider next time we purchase new PJs?

Comfort, wearability, quality, and, of course, sustainability. In terms of materials, organic cotton is better than conventional cotton for the environment and your skin. 

What is Organic Cotton? 

Organic cotton is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides and herbicides. Organic cotton crops can be sprayed with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) natural proteins to protect them from insect infestation and crop destruction, but not with the cocktail of toxic chemicals often sprayed over conventional cotton crops. While organic cotton, by definition, is about the use of synthetic chemicals, organic cotton often is significantly less water-intensive than conventional.

Read more about organic cotton here.

What is GOTS Cotton?

Many of these brands use certified cotton from the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS), the golden seal of approval for sustainably processed fabric made with organic fibers.

Read more about GOTS cotton here.

Why should you purchase organic cotton pajamas? 

Organic cotton pajamas are not only more eco-friendly but also more comfortable. The natural fibers of organic cotton enable greater ventilation and temperature management as you sleep. This characteristic guarantees your year-round comfort by keeping you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Wearability is essential for pajamas and clothing, and organic cotton pieces tend to be made with durability and longevity in mind. The quality construction of these garments ensures that they can withstand regular wear and washing without losing shape or tearing. 

Here, we list a selection of brands that offer organic cotton PJs that fit different needs and budgets. Happy browsing! 

our favorite organic cotton pajama brands:

1. Pact 

Price: $20-88

Pact is an American fashion brand known for its laid-back, well-made, easy-to-wear styles perfect for everyday wear that can be sported daily. 

In addition to comfort, Pact operates with sustainability in mind, working with Fair Trade USA, Global Organic Textile Standard, and SimpliZero. They manufacture clothing from Certified Organic Cotton at Fair Trade Certified™ factories.

In addition to their standard apparel, underwear, and home textiles, Pact manufactures comfortable sleepwear from organic cotton. 

These come in a variety of styles, from classic button-shirts to comfortable long-sleeve tees like their Cool Stretch Fitted Long Sleeve Tee and drawstring waistband pants like their Breezy Light Gauze Sleep Pant. The perfect comfy pieces for a good night of sleep or chill Sunday morning on the sofa.


2. Under the Canopy

Price: $24-42

Known for its high-quality home textiles and essentials, Under the Canopy also offers comfortable organic cotton loungewear that can be worn to bed. 

Their minimalist, premium-quality loungewear is, in fact, a fantastic option for those looking for Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and OEKO-TEX® certified organic cotton nightwear on a budget. 

Thanks to their quality, easy fit, and versatile design, Under the Canopy's pieces, like their slightly cropped Organic Lounge Cami, can be worn for a long time and in a variety of situations, making them perfect for those who want to make the most of their wardrobe, even at night time. 


3. Coyuchi 

Price: $28-58

At Coyuchi, one can find a variety of premium quality organic cotton home textiles ranging from bed sheets and honeycomb blankets to robes and bath towels. On top of that, they also have a selection of apparel. 

Their comfortable, minimalist pieces made from high-quality GOTS-certified cotton in elegant, timeless colors can be the perfect garments to wear to bed, ideal for those who enjoy understated elegance even past bedtime.

Take their roomy Women's Solstice Organic Nightgown; it's not only GOTS, Made Safe, and Fair Trade Certified, but it's also the perfect elevated version of the basic nightgown for feeling your best as the weather gets chillier thanks to the high-quality organic cotton jersey and smart design. 


4. Printfresh 

Price: $58-168

Are you someone who can't get enough Dopamine Dressing during your waking hours and wants to take the colorful fun past dusk? The Philadelphia, PA-based apparel brand Printfresh could be the right place to look for your next organic cotton PJs. Textile designers Amy Voloshin and Leo Voloshin founded Printfresh in 2016. Since then, the brand has become known for the bold, colorful prints that make their pieces stand out, like the one on their kaleidoscopic organic cotton Unicorn's Garden Cami Nightgown, which, like many of their cheerful nighties, features deep pockets, a much-needed but unfortunately rare feature in nightwear.

Available from size XS to 6X and made in a Sedex-reviewed factory, Printfresh's nightgowns and PJs are a fantastic option for those who want to wear fun, unique, and bright pieces even to bed without compromising on sustainability and quality. 

Fun fact: If you think Printfresh's prints look like they come straight out of a painting, you are right. The brand's whimsical designs are first painted in gouache and then become digital illustrations.  


5. Leena & Lu 

Price: $40-108

Founded by Ofelia and Kathya in 2018, Leena & Lu is an apparel brand offering sustainably made soft and comfortable sleepwear. This woman-owned, Peru-based, small apparel company specializes in sleepwear, and it shows.

Leena & Lu's organic pieces, like their Women's Organic Pima Cotton T-Shirt Dress, check all the sleepwear boxes. They are silky-soft and feel amazing against your skin.

Plus, they allow you a great deal of mobility thanks to their excellent design: they are right in that sweet between roomy and fitted, which makes them cozy enough to wear to bed and nice-looking enough to wear around and out of the house. 


6. Komodo

Price: $40-105

Are you a fan of the classics who is in the market for some new PJs? Then, you should check out Komodo.

Founded all the back in 1988 by Mark Bloom, British fashion label Komodo offers sustainable vintage vibes-filled, eccentric garments that will remind you of the iconic British street styles of the '80s made with a selection of fabrics like GOTS certified organic cotton, linen, and hemp.

In addition to standard daywear, Komodo offers a selection of high-end pajamas made from extra soft GOTS Certified Organic Cotton.

Like their summery JIM JAM Pajama Shorts Set, they sell nightwear suitable for colder and warmer nights.

These pajamas come in various classic prints and cuts that make Komodo's nightwear an excellent option for those who like to sport more classic styles even at night time without compromising on sustainability, comfort, and coziness.


7. Mightly 

Price: $30-48

When it comes to kid's clothing, durability, safety, and comfort are the most important factors, even when looking for pajamas. If you agree, then try checking out Mightly. 

This US-based, woman-owned company offers apparel for kids and adults, including organic pajamas for children. It is an excellent option for parents looking for cozy and eco-friendly pajamas for the whole family.

Not only the pajamas they offer are made of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Certified organic cotton in a Fair Trade Certified Factory, but they also come in a variety of cute, fun designs.  

 Mightly's organic cotton pajamas are made with quality and comfort in mind: soft, well-designed, and manufactured from sturdy but breathable organic cotton. Bonus points: They also have a second-hand section, where parents on a budget can purchase organic cotton pajamas for a kinder pierce.    


8. Thunderpants 

Price: $48-62

Sometimes, the comfiest things to wear to bed weren't even designed to be worn in bed. After all, clothes made with wearability and quality in mind make for the perfect nightwear, and we can find these characteristics even in other types of clothing like underwear or loungewear. 

Thunderpants USA is a brand that makes high-quality, comfortable undergarments manufactured from organic cotton and designed to withstand the test of time, making their pieces excellent options for nightwear.

This Portland-based brand also operates with sustainability in mind, so much so that it even received the highest rating on Good on You. Their garments are GOTS-certified organic cotton and spandex fabric, perfectly balancing comfort and durability. These cotton garments are made in Hillsboro, Oregon, around 7 miles from the Thunderpants office. 

The results are unique, wearable undergarments available from size SM to 3XL. So, if you are looking for fun, sustainable nightwear for the hotter months, a Thurdepants cami and bottoms combo like the Hipster Daisy Days and their Cami Daisy Days could be what you are looking for right now.  


9. Hanna Andersson 

Price: $44-134

Hanna Andersson is another option for parents looking for durable organic cotton PJs, especially sets of matching family PJs for their little ones. 

Their OEKO-TEX® and GOTS-certified organic rib knit kids' PJs are an option for parents wanting to get safer nightwear for their kids, especially for those on a budget, as the brand's pieces are available at a more accessible price in the brand's pre-loved section. 

In addition to their other designs, the brand also offers licensed designs featuring characters from Star Wars™, Miffy®, Marvel®, and other fictional universes, making them a safer alternative to synthetic nightwear for parents whose kids might want PJs featuring their favorite characters. 


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


MAKE SURE TO PIN THE PHOTO BELOW TO SAVE THIS POST FOR LATER!


WANT TO FIND MORE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS?

The Brand Directory features hundreds of sustainable brands approved by us!

We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


RELATED READING YOU MAY ALSO ENJOY:

 
How To Sew Your Own Clothes: A List of Resources To Help You Learn
 

How To Get Started Sewing Your Own Clothing

Quitting or cutting down on fast fashion might be challenging when it seems so ubiquitous, yet with the right tools and resources, one can make some, if not all, of the clothes they need.    

Sewing our clothes is undoubtedly not the only way to create a sustainable wardrobe. Still, it's the perfect pastime to channel our creativity in a sustainable, practical, and fun way. Many people were taught how to sew as kids by family members and family friends, but it can seem as daunting as it is exciting for those who have to learn how to sew as adults.    

Luckily, as in many other instances, the internet can come in handy for learning a manual skill such as sewing with tutorials, courses, and more for all skill levels. Fans of a more traditional learning approach shouldn't get discouraged either, as there are some great, helpful books on the topic. 

We have compiled a list of valuable, accessible, and paid resources to help you start this exciting journey, familiarize yourself with the needle and thread, and level it up until you can make the garments of your dreams. With these resources, some time, dedication, and practice, your home-made clothes are on the horizon. Let's get sewing!   

Image: Seamwork

The online sewing courses and classes 

Seamwork

If you or a loved one are looking to learn how to sew clothing, the United States-based Certified B Corp. Seamwork is the perfect place to empower oneself to go from beginner to someone who can design and make clothes that fit them body-wise and style-wise. 

"Learn to Sew Clothing" is Seamwork's straight-to-the-point, practical paid class for absolute beginners to sewing, providing them with the proper framework to feel empowered rather than intimated by sewing. It teaches its students about fabrics, how to use a sewing machine, and sewing patterns with the help of video modules, a workbook, a sewing dictionary, and much more. 

Seamwork's most popular members-only course is their "Design Your Wardrobe" course, which includes videos, community access, a planner, and a workbook, and it's taught by the founder of Seamwork, Sarai Mitnick. 

This course aims to make your sewing fit you and your fashion goals and taste, get strategic about your sewing, and avoid the most common pitfalls hobbyist tailors often find themselves stuck in without access to the right resources. 

To those looking forward to making specific pieces to add to their closet, they also offer premium sew-alongs that walk you through the crafting process step-by-step and help you get the suitable fabric and fit with their adjustment tutorials. 

In addition to their paid courses and patterns, they offer many free info and resources: anything from patterns and sew-along videos to sewing tips and inspo. You can find this accessible, easy-to-follow content across their website, YouTubeInstagram, and Podcast

Made to Sew

Home-made doesn't have to mean poorly made. On the contrary, they can look and feel as good as the ones you buy from regular clothing companies. If you agree and want to make your home-made clothing look professional and sleek, Made to Sew offers the perfect assets to achieve this goal. 

Founded by the London College of Fashion graduate fashion designer and sewing educator Aneka Truman, Made to Sew offers sewing expertise to people at all levels of their sewing journey. From those taking their first steps into the world of sewing to those who wish to level up their skills.  

The Made to Sew free tutorials on their YouTube channel teach viewers the essential elements of sewing, like what machine needles to use and how to wind a bobbin, and all sorts of valuable techniques, like how to sew a French dart and how patterns match fabric for garments. 

On Made to Sew, you can also find paid memberships to learn more about sewing, get familiar with pattern amendments, get support with sewing techniques, access a live stream database, and join a community of sewing lovers. 

The Made to Sew Academy, which is free to join and gives access to the "Made to Sew" professional sewing, dressmaking, and tailoring classes, is also available via an app, which makes learning how to sew or level up one's sewing much more manageable. 

Made to Sew offers the perfect information for those who want to learn how to sew independently and go beyond sew-along videos to make clothes that fit well and look professional. 

Patterns and sew-alongs 

Rosery Apparel

If you are a beginner sewist looking for easy, fun sew-alongs, Rosery Apparel's YouTube channel is the perfect place for you. The sew-alongs with Janelle, the founder of Australia-based Rosery Apparel, are beginner-friendly, and the clothes you will get at the end are versatile, easy to wear, and easy to style, especially with each other as the garments featured on Rosery Apparel have a cohesive aesthetic that makes building fully you-made outfits intuitive.    

On Rosery Apparel's website, you can also find the digital and paper patterns of some of the garments featured on the business's YT channel, which makes these projects more beginner-friendly as having both written and video instructions makes replicating the garments at home even more straightforward. 

Friday Pattern Company

Founded in 2017, the US-based indie sewing pattern company Friday Pattern Company offers versatile, functional sewing patterns that are minimal, easy to follow, and fun to sew. They offer printed and pdf patterns as well as pattern bundles. On the company's YT channel, you can also find sew-alongs of patterns from Friday Pattern Company's shop, which makes following them at home more beginner-friendly. 

These are available online on the Friday Pattern Company's website and other specialized e-shops, but you can also find their products in local fabric and sew shops across the globe. If you are in the market for fun sewing patterns, you might be able to find some from Friday Pattern Company in your area.  

The sewing books and e-books 

"You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book" by Juliet Uzor

As the title implies, the goal of this short, informative book by London-based teacher, author, DIY content creator, and winner of the 2019 Great British Sewing Bee in 2019 Juliet Uzor is to teach its readers the essential, fundamental skills of sewing they need to make their first home-made garments. 

Through "You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book," the skills and techniques you'll learn, like how to employ a sewing machine, how to make measurements properly, and how to use a pattern, won't just stay abstract notions in your head, but instead, you'll get the chance to put to use straight away.  

In addition to the needed info to start sewing clothes at home, the book, in fact, also includes 15 sewing projects with the required patterns to make a wide array of clothes and accessories, like a versatile camisole and a tiered skirt. Projects like these are the perfect occasion for a beginner to try their hand at projects employing a variety of fabric weights and typologies. 

This book isn't just for those who want to make new garments from scratch but also for those who wish to learn how to sew to spruce up the clothes they already own or rework old garments into new fashion pieces. 

That's because "You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book" also includes some fun projects that teach you how to upcycle second-hand and vintage garments, like turning a pair of old jeans into a tote bag or an oversized shirt into a gathered skirt.    

Sew It Yourself with Diy Daisy by Daisy Braid

Australian author, self-taught sewist, and content creator Daisy Braid's "Sew It Yourself with Diy Daisy" is a great sewing book for makers at all learning stages who wish to make their fun, versatile, and comfortable clothing at home. It has all the info a beginner needs to familiarise themselves with sewing. Sewing equipment, core techniques, and sewing materials won't be a mystery anymore.   

With that info, beginners and more advanced learners can tackle the book's twenty pattern-free, infinitely customizable projects. That is because these projects include clear step-by-step instructions with plenty of illustrations and pictures. No guesswork is involved here; you'll know what to do!  

In addition to the easy-to-follow instructions, this book's sewing projects have another plus: you can effortlessly adapt them to your body and fit preferences. The book's ten more complex clothing projects don't follow standard sizing. Instead, the makers should use their body measurements when making their one-of-a-kind home-made garments, making Daisy Braid's book the perfect read for a size-inclusive introduction to sewing. Plus, the garments feature no buttons or zips, which improves their chances of better weathering size fluctuations and makes them easier to create.         

If you are uncomfortable making clothes just yet, "Sew It Yourself with Diy Daisy" 's ten small accessory projects are just what you might need to dip your toes into sewing without committing to more time-consuming, more challenging projects. 


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


MAKE SURE TO PIN THE PHOTO BELOW TO SAVE THIS POST FOR LATER!


WANT TO FIND SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

Our Brand Directory is home to hundreds of sustainable brands, from makeup to cleaning supplies, from underwear to shoes. We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


RELATED READING YOU MAY ALSO ENJOY:

 
What is Spandex? And is it Sustainable?
 

A Guide to Spandex

It's no secret that compared to the people of our past, we tend to have a much narrower understanding of how clothes, sewing, and fabrics work. After all, one had to get smart when shopping off the rack was not an option, but centuries or decades away from becoming the standard way of acquiring clothing.

While we might not want to or be able to make our clothes at home like many of our ancestors did, knowing more about garments and how they are made can still be beneficial. It can help us appreciate the clothes we own more and understand how the fashion industry works and how it can be improved for the sake of the planet and the people.

Fibers, their use, and manufacturing are substantial facets of the fashion industry and its impact. Without them, clothes as we know them would hardly exist. That's why understanding fibers is essential to understanding fashion, whether you're a maker or an activist.

Spandex, the ever-present petroleum-based supporting actor in the world of fibers, is a staple in countless types of clothing and a fiber worth learning more about if you want to learn more about fashion.

Spandex: the popular fiber with many names

Spandex is a fiber known by different names across the world. Spandex is the most commonly used in the United States, while elastane is the go-to choice to describe the same fiber on the other side of the pond and beyond.

LYCRA®, instead, is the trademarked brand name used to refer to the spandex produced by the homonymous textile company. This fiber is synthetic, and like other human-made fibers, it was created to have certain characteristics and be fit for specific purposes. The year was 1958 when the American chemist Dr. Joseph Shivers invented "Fiber K," spandex's first name while working for the chemical company DuPont.

The research that led to this invention had a specific goal: creating a stretch synthetic fiber that could replace rubber in the apparel industry. As odd as it might sound to us now, this material was the standard choice before spandex's invention to give shapewear elasticity. However, the use of rubber in garments came with plenty of drawbacks.

Rubber deteriorates when it comes into contact with body oils, lotions, or perspiration. In addition to that, it gets significantly stretched out over time. This was a rather undesirable set of characteristics for a material that the apparel industry used for garments worn directly on the skin. The invention of spandex solved the need for rubber, and spandex has been used in the textile industry ever since.

What is spandex made of? A closer look at the composition of this elastic synthetic fiber 

The secret behind spandex's elasticity and resilience is in its specific composition. Spandex is a long-chain synthetic polymeric, fully synthetic fiber made with a mix of stiff and flexible segments. This composition allows the polyether-polyurea copolymer to stretch from 5 times to eight times.

Typically, spandex fibers are made chiefly of polyurethane with an addition of other fibers like polyester and nylon. According to The European Union Textile Labeling Regulation, a fiber labeled as elastane must include at least 85% polyurethane.

The polyurethane and the additional materials that compose this elastomer come from non-renewable sources as they derive from fossil fuels like crude oil. This material is mostly manufactured through a process called "solution dry spinning," which starts with a polymer solution made from dissolved raw materials and ends with a solid fiber.

The textile world in numbers - How much spandex gets produced in the world every year?

According to the non-profit company Textile Exchange 2023's version of their "Materials Market Report," 2022, the spandex global fiber market share was around 1%. This number is far from the percentages of more popular fibers like polyester or cotton. Yet, given the gargantuan size of the current global textile production, it is no surprise that while spandex makes up only a tiny part of the total fiber market, we still produce a ton of it every year.

According to the Textile Exchange report, the global spandex production amounted to over 1.2 million tonnes in that same year. This marked an increase from the previous year's output, slightly below 1.2 million tonnes.

It is no coincidence that you have not heard much about recycled spandex. In its recycled form, this fiber is still quite hard to come by. As of then, recycled spandex comprised only 2.8% of this fiber's total global production volumes.

What is spandex used for? The many uses of this fiber 

This fiber is used in medical and home textiles but is a staple fiber in the apparel industry. Regarding garments, spandex is hardly ever the star of the show, making up a considerable part of the fabric composition, mostly just in shapewear. Still, if you go through the labels on the clothes in your closet, you'll see that a sizable portion of them contains a small percentage of spandex.

What makes textile companies want to add a bit of spandex to the fabrics used to make anything from underwear and socks to swimsuits, from jeans and leggings to sweatpants? Like the other synthetic fibers, spandex has a set of distinct quality attributes. Adding it to other fibers allows fabrics made with this blend to have higher elasticity. It also has high breathability and high moisture-wicking abilities, which are the right qualities for fiber used in fabrics made for any sportswear.

In addition to increasing garments' stretchiness, spandex increases their comfort, wearability, and overall resilience. It is a valuable ally in making body-con garments like skinny jeans, panties, and bras more wearable and resistant to wear and tear. This is why you can find spandex employed mainly in blended fabrics mixed with natural fibers like cotton or other synthetics where a touch of extra elasticity is needed.

Fibers and the environment - The environmental issues connected to spandex

While adding spandex to a fabric mix comes with a plethora of benefits in terms of performance and comfort, this fiber's manufacturing and its end-of-life come with notable environmental consequences.

The environmental issues connected to this fiber start from the raw materials that compose it. These come from non-renewable resources, and as petrochemicals, they are products of the fossil fuel industry that require a significant amount of energy to be extracted and refined. The fossil fuel industry is the same one responsible for the bulk of the excess greenhouse gas emissions that have led to the current climate crisis, not to mention air pollution, habitat loss, and the health problems experienced by communities living close to industry facilities.

The process that transforms the raw materials into the fiber we know and wear is energy-intensive and chemically intensive, which can cause its own set of potential environmental and human-health-related issues.

The end-of-life of this fiber poses multiple issues to the well-being of the environment and the people. As a petroleum-based fiber, spandex is a non-biodegradable material that stays in this world long after it has been discarded. Throughout its life and once disposed of, the clothing made with this fiber sheds tiny plastic fibers, microplastics, into the environment, contributing to the issue of plastic pollution across the air, land, and oceans. The research behind a 2023 study on microfiber release from elastane blended fabrics revealed that the overall fiber emission of the fabric rose as the elastane percentage increased and that, in proportion, blended fabric elastane fibers released more microfibers.

Spandex is used chiefly in blended fabrics, which, as a whole, are more challenging to recycle, given the difficulty of separating the different components. An issue to which, luckily, a team of scientists from the Vienna University of Technology might have found a scalable, non-hazardous solution, as detailed in their 2023 study.

Image: Sorona 

Are there any viable alternatives to virgin spandex? 

Given the wide use and sizable environmental impact of spandex, it's safe to say that an environmentally and socially sustainable, biodegradable alternative to the conventional, petroleum-based virgin material would be a game changer in changing the textile industry for the better.

As of now, there are some available alternatives to virgin spandex. Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified recycled spandex is available, which, compared to the virgin one, has the benefit of diverting textile waste from landfills. There are also a couple of partially bio-based alternatives to conventional, virgin spandex.

From late 2024, the LYCRA Company will offer one in collaboration with Qore®, a bio-derived LYCRA® fiber made with QIRA®, an Iowan corn-based material. To make this bio-derived LYCRA® fiber, the QIRA® is transformed into Polytetramethylene Ether Glycol (PTMEG) and then used to make up 70% of the total bio-derived LYCRA® fiber content.

Dupont™ Sorona® is another alternative to virgin spandex. Made by the same company that invented spandex all those years ago, this fiber is spandex-free and partially plant-based. The stretchy polymer is made from crops through fermentation and the addition of TPA (terephthalic acid), and it's approved by the USDA BioPreferred Program for certified bio-based products.


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


MAKE SURE TO PIN THE PHOTO BELOW TO SAVE THIS POST FOR LATER!


WANT TO FIND SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

Our Brand Directory is home to hundreds of sustainable brands, from makeup to cleaning supplies, from underwear to shoes. We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


RELATED READING YOU MAY ALSO ENJOY:

 
10 Fast Fashion Statistics You Should Know in 2024
 

Fast Fashion Statistics You Should Know

If there is something fast fashion brands thrive upon, it is a lack of knowledge. This knowledge gap goes from consumers remaining largely ignorant about who makes their clothes, where they are manufactured, or how garments are made. 

After all, the fewer consumers know about the unsafe conditions in which their fossil fuels-derived ensembles are made, the more they will profit. Especially given the sheer amount of resources fast fashion brands invest in greenwashing and pinkwashing campaigns to present themselves as environmentally and socially conscious. 

What is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion refers to brands producing high volumes of clothing yearly. Instead of launching new styles twice a year in the traditional spring/summer and winter/fall seasons, fast fashion companies have 52 micro-seasons. This gives consumers ongoing access to new, on-trend clothing at an affordable price.

Since we pay less for our clothes, we value them less. It’s normal to wear something only a handful of times before discarding it. We’re less attached to the clothes we buy because new clothes are cheaper than ever before, and we can buy them online with the click of a button.

As we enter the new year, we can look back to what has emerged about fast fashion over the past year, shedding light on how unethical business practices are still a trademark of this industry, which seems still unwilling to divorce itself from its unsustainable business model kept up on the expenses of textile workers. 

1. 1% of prominent fashion brands disclose how many of the workers in their supply chain get paid a living wage

In July 2023, the not-for-profit organization Fashion Revolution published its annual fashion industry transparency report, the Fashion Transparency Index, which the organization has been publishing since 2017. 

For the FTI, the organization has evaluated how much information the 250 biggest global fashion companies and retailers disclose about the environmental and human rights policies implemented across their supply chains. These include fast fashion brands such as Shein, boohoo, and Primark. 

Only three brands out of the analyzed 250 publicly disclosed how many collective bargaining agreements were reached across their garment supply chains to guarantee workers' wages higher than those required by local labor laws, which are often significantly lower than living wages. 

This situation is happening at a time when, in the aftermath of the Covid-10 pandemic outbreak, union busting and government-mandated labor deregulations are diminishing garment workers' chances of making their voices heard. 

These same workers are struggling financially amidst a global cost of living crisis, as countless fashion companies do not pay their workers enough to cover basic needs such as housing, food, and healthcare. The brands evaluated in last year's FTI only disclose how many workers in their supply chain get paid a living wage.   

2. In 2023, the global fast fashion market estimated value amounted to $122.98 billion 

Despite the low workers' wages, poor working conditions, and environmental impact, fast fashion is still a billion-dollar sector, as its ubiquitousness in people's closets would suggest, and its value is rising. 

Research and Markets Fast Fashion Global Market Report 2023 predicted that the market would have grown from $106.42 billion in 2022 to $122.98 billion in 2023.

3. Only 25% of textile and garment workers received their full wages after the Türkiye earthquake 

Last February, an earthquake hit Türkiye, a critical textile and garment production region. In the aftermath of this natural disaster, the health and well-being of the garment workers in the area were not safeguarded by their employers, whose factories supply widely-known fast fashion brands, including Zara and H&M.

2023 report by the unions and labor rights organizations' network Clean Clothes Campaign revealed that many workers had to return to their jobs without a secure place to reside, with 104 out of 130 workers reporting housing and related issues after the earthquake. 

While struggling with such issues, workers had to return to the facilities where they worked before they underwent any structural safety checks. Most of these workers were also left to fend for themselves financially, as they had not been paid their full salary during the event.

"We had difficult days. We were hungry and thirsty. We were homeless. The factory did not support us. The state did not support us at all." One of the garment viewers interviewed for the report said, highlighting how workers paid the highest price in the fashion industry even after such a calamity.  

4. A survey revealed that UK consumers consider H&M, Nike, Primark, M&S, and Amazon the most sustainable retailers 

The report 2023 Green Is The New Black by UK data and news provider Retail Week revealed surprising data about 1,000 British consumers' perceptions of what makes a retailer sustainable.

Despite the many scandals, many UK consumers perceive multiple fast fashion brands as doing business sustainably. So much so that fast fashion giant H&M has been picked as the most sustainable among retailers and retail brands by the consumers participating in the survey. 

5. 99% of fashion brands do not disclose a commitment to cut the number of items they create

The definition of fast fashion can be slippery and even somewhat divisive, as many factors can determine how sustainable a fashion company is. Yet, a business model that prioritizes growth at any cost and archives it through overproduction is a crucial indicator we can look for when trying to understand if a company is fast fashion. 

Last year, Fashion Revolution's Fashion Transparency Index looked at brands' attitudes towards degrowth and the overproduction model that characterizes much of today's fashion industry. 

In the world of fast fashion, overproduction is the emperor's new clothes (pun intended). It might be a subject gleefully ignored in the many greenwashing stunts fast fashion companies have pulled in the last decade. Yet, it is one of the main reasons today's fashion comes at such a high environmental cost. 

Despite this, the report reveals that 99% of fashion brands do not disclose a commitment to cut the number of items they create. In addition, brands also tend to keep their production volumes to themselves, as 88% don't publicly disclose their annual production volumes.  

6. By the end of July 2023, there have been 314 documented cases of alleged labor and human rights violations against garment workers in Myanmar

On February 1, 2021, the Myanmar military seized power through a coup. Since then, the country's garment workers have been involved in the Civil Disobedience Movement. 

The Business & Human Rights Resource Centre and its partners and collaborators have been tracking the labor and human rights abuses inflicted against the country's garment workers, which has been on the rise since the military coup. These garment workers work in the supply chains of major international fashion brands like H&M Group, Inditex, and Primark. 

These abuses against Myanmarian garment workers include wage reduction and theft, Gender-based violence and harassment, and attacks on these workers' civil liberties. By the end of July 2023, two years after the coup, there were 314 documented cases of alleged labor and human rights violations against garment workers in the Southeast Asian nation. 

7. In the United States, the average return rate of online clothing orders is 24.4%

The issue of overproduction in the fashion industry has a plethora of consequences in terms of environmental impact. One is the number of returns, which come with hefty prices for the planet. 

According to a 2023 report by Coresight Research, US apparel brands and retailers experience a high return rate of 24.4% for online orders. Returns equal extra emissions and often result in clothing getting landfilled. 

The British Fashion Council's (BFC) Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF) has looked into the industry returns issue on the other side of the pond and published their findings in their 2023 report Solving fashion's product returns.

This report showed that more than half of the returned items of clothing end up in landfills and that these returns generated an estimated 750,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions in the UK in 2022 alone. 

8. The amount of fiber produced globally increased from around 112 million tonnes in 2021 to 116 million tonnes in 2022

On December 1, 2023, the non-profit company Textile Exchange published last year's edition of its annual report about the world's fibers and materials production volumes, the Materials Market Report 2023

From the report, a piece of data emerged that tells the scale of overproduction in the apparel, fashion, and textile industries. In fact, Textile Exchange's Materials Market Report last year reported that global fiber production rose from about 112 million tonnes in 2021 to 116 million tonnes in 2022.

Suppose these industries were to apply a "business-as-usual" policy despite the sector's widespread impact on climate change and pollution. In that case, Textile Exchange predicts that this number could reach 147 million tonnes by 2030.

9. 76% of the items sent to fast fashion take-back schemes were destroyed, left in warehouses, or shipped to African countries 

Many fast fashion brands have implemented and widely advertised take-back schemes to allegedly keep clothes in the loop and out of landfills. 

An investigation conducted by the Changing Markets Foundation into fast fashion companies' clothing take-back schemes has revealed that their effectiveness might be significantly lower than customers expect. The organization tracked 21 goods from 10 fashion brands between August 2022 and July 2023. 

It turned out that 16 of 21 pieces were either burned, stored in warehouses, or shipped to the African continent, where up to half of the old apparel gets disposed of or shredded for other purposes.

10. Polyester accounted for 54% of the global fiber market 

The production and end-of-life of virgin fossil-based materials such as polyester, spandex, and nylon impact the environment, people, and animals. 

Despite the plethora of environmental issues connected to the life cycle of these materials, their popularity has remained strong in recent times. 

According to Textile Exchange, polyester, a material omnipresent in the collection of fast fashion brands worldwide and the most widely used synthetic fiber, maintained its position as the most extensively produced fiber in 2022, as revealed by the Materials Market Report 2023

According to the report, this material production has risen from 2021 to 2022, going from 61 million tonnes in 2021 to 63 million tonnes in 2022. 

The fast fashion industry employs this material so widely that, on its own, it accounts for 54% of the global fiber market.


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


MAKE SURE TO PIN THE PHOTO BELOW TO SAVE THIS POST FOR LATER!


WANT TO FIND SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

Our Brand Directory is home to hundreds of sustainable brands, from makeup to cleaning supplies, from underwear to shoes. We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


RELATED READING YOU MAY ALSO ENJOY: