A Guide to Spandex

It's no secret that compared to the people of our past, we tend to have a much narrower understanding of how clothes, sewing, and fabrics work. After all, one had to get smart when shopping off the rack was not an option, but centuries or decades away from becoming the standard way of acquiring clothing.

While we might not want to or be able to make our clothes at home like many of our ancestors did, knowing more about garments and how they are made can still be beneficial. It can help us appreciate the clothes we own more and understand how the fashion industry works and how it can be improved for the sake of the planet and the people.

Fibers, their use, and manufacturing are substantial facets of the fashion industry and its impact. Without them, clothes as we know them would hardly exist. That's why understanding fibers is essential to understanding fashion, whether you're a maker or an activist.

Spandex, the ever-present petroleum-based supporting actor in the world of fibers, is a staple in countless types of clothing and a fiber worth learning more about if you want to learn more about fashion.

Spandex: the popular fiber with many names

Spandex is a fiber known by different names across the world. Spandex is the most commonly used in the United States, while elastane is the go-to choice to describe the same fiber on the other side of the pond and beyond.

LYCRA®, instead, is the trademarked brand name used to refer to the spandex produced by the homonymous textile company. This fiber is synthetic, and like other human-made fibers, it was created to have certain characteristics and be fit for specific purposes. The year was 1958 when the American chemist Dr. Joseph Shivers invented "Fiber K," spandex's first name while working for the chemical company DuPont.

The research that led to this invention had a specific goal: creating a stretch synthetic fiber that could replace rubber in the apparel industry. As odd as it might sound to us now, this material was the standard choice before spandex's invention to give shapewear elasticity. However, the use of rubber in garments came with plenty of drawbacks.

Rubber deteriorates when it comes into contact with body oils, lotions, or perspiration. In addition to that, it gets significantly stretched out over time. This was a rather undesirable set of characteristics for a material that the apparel industry used for garments worn directly on the skin. The invention of spandex solved the need for rubber, and spandex has been used in the textile industry ever since.

What is spandex made of? A closer look at the composition of this elastic synthetic fiber 

The secret behind spandex's elasticity and resilience is in its specific composition. Spandex is a long-chain synthetic polymeric, fully synthetic fiber made with a mix of stiff and flexible segments. This composition allows the polyether-polyurea copolymer to stretch from 5 times to eight times.

Typically, spandex fibers are made chiefly of polyurethane with an addition of other fibers like polyester and nylon. According to The European Union Textile Labeling Regulation, a fiber labeled as elastane must include at least 85% polyurethane.

The polyurethane and the additional materials that compose this elastomer come from non-renewable sources as they derive from fossil fuels like crude oil. This material is mostly manufactured through a process called "solution dry spinning," which starts with a polymer solution made from dissolved raw materials and ends with a solid fiber.

The textile world in numbers - How much spandex gets produced in the world every year?

According to the non-profit company Textile Exchange 2023's version of their "Materials Market Report," 2022, the spandex global fiber market share was around 1%. This number is far from the percentages of more popular fibers like polyester or cotton. Yet, given the gargantuan size of the current global textile production, it is no surprise that while spandex makes up only a tiny part of the total fiber market, we still produce a ton of it every year.

According to the Textile Exchange report, the global spandex production amounted to over 1.2 million tonnes in that same year. This marked an increase from the previous year's output, slightly below 1.2 million tonnes.

It is no coincidence that you have not heard much about recycled spandex. In its recycled form, this fiber is still quite hard to come by. As of then, recycled spandex comprised only 2.8% of this fiber's total global production volumes.

What is spandex used for? The many uses of this fiber 

This fiber is used in medical and home textiles but is a staple fiber in the apparel industry. Regarding garments, spandex is hardly ever the star of the show, making up a considerable part of the fabric composition, mostly just in shapewear. Still, if you go through the labels on the clothes in your closet, you'll see that a sizable portion of them contains a small percentage of spandex.

What makes textile companies want to add a bit of spandex to the fabrics used to make anything from underwear and socks to swimsuits, from jeans and leggings to sweatpants? Like the other synthetic fibers, spandex has a set of distinct quality attributes. Adding it to other fibers allows fabrics made with this blend to have higher elasticity. It also has high breathability and high moisture-wicking abilities, which are the right qualities for fiber used in fabrics made for any sportswear.

In addition to increasing garments' stretchiness, spandex increases their comfort, wearability, and overall resilience. It is a valuable ally in making body-con garments like skinny jeans, panties, and bras more wearable and resistant to wear and tear. This is why you can find spandex employed mainly in blended fabrics mixed with natural fibers like cotton or other synthetics where a touch of extra elasticity is needed.

Fibers and the environment - The environmental issues connected to spandex

While adding spandex to a fabric mix comes with a plethora of benefits in terms of performance and comfort, this fiber's manufacturing and its end-of-life come with notable environmental consequences.

The environmental issues connected to this fiber start from the raw materials that compose it. These come from non-renewable resources, and as petrochemicals, they are products of the fossil fuel industry that require a significant amount of energy to be extracted and refined. The fossil fuel industry is the same one responsible for the bulk of the excess greenhouse gas emissions that have led to the current climate crisis, not to mention air pollution, habitat loss, and the health problems experienced by communities living close to industry facilities.

The process that transforms the raw materials into the fiber we know and wear is energy-intensive and chemically intensive, which can cause its own set of potential environmental and human-health-related issues.

The end-of-life of this fiber poses multiple issues to the well-being of the environment and the people. As a petroleum-based fiber, spandex is a non-biodegradable material that stays in this world long after it has been discarded. Throughout its life and once disposed of, the clothing made with this fiber sheds tiny plastic fibers, microplastics, into the environment, contributing to the issue of plastic pollution across the air, land, and oceans. The research behind a 2023 study on microfiber release from elastane blended fabrics revealed that the overall fiber emission of the fabric rose as the elastane percentage increased and that, in proportion, blended fabric elastane fibers released more microfibers.

Spandex is used chiefly in blended fabrics, which, as a whole, are more challenging to recycle, given the difficulty of separating the different components. An issue to which, luckily, a team of scientists from the Vienna University of Technology might have found a scalable, non-hazardous solution, as detailed in their 2023 study.

Image: Sorona 

Are there any viable alternatives to virgin spandex? 

Given the wide use and sizable environmental impact of spandex, it's safe to say that an environmentally and socially sustainable, biodegradable alternative to the conventional, petroleum-based virgin material would be a game changer in changing the textile industry for the better.

As of now, there are some available alternatives to virgin spandex. Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified recycled spandex is available, which, compared to the virgin one, has the benefit of diverting textile waste from landfills. There are also a couple of partially bio-based alternatives to conventional, virgin spandex.

From late 2024, the LYCRA Company will offer one in collaboration with Qore®, a bio-derived LYCRA® fiber made with QIRA®, an Iowan corn-based material. To make this bio-derived LYCRA® fiber, the QIRA® is transformed into Polytetramethylene Ether Glycol (PTMEG) and then used to make up 70% of the total bio-derived LYCRA® fiber content.

Dupont™ Sorona® is another alternative to virgin spandex. Made by the same company that invented spandex all those years ago, this fiber is spandex-free and partially plant-based. The stretchy polymer is made from crops through fermentation and the addition of TPA (terephthalic acid), and it's approved by the USDA BioPreferred Program for certified bio-based products.

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About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.

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Creating a Sustainable Fashion Future: The Role of Certifications

In the ever-evolving landscape of the fashion industry, the importance of sustainability has become increasingly evident. As the demand for ethical and environmentally friendly practices grows, certifications play a pivotal role in guiding both consumers and brands toward a more sustainable and responsible future. In this extensive exploration, we delve into the challenges consumers and brands face in navigating the complex world of certifications, highlighting the significance of certifications such as SANE and their role in shaping the fashion industry's path toward a greener tomorrow.

Understanding the Dilemma: Consumers and Brands in the Maze of Certifications

The fashion certification sphere resembles a complex mosaic, with numerous pieces representing different standards and aspects. Consumers and brands alike find themselves overwhelmed by the plethora of choices available. The challenge for consumers lies in deciphering the meaning behind each certification, as the lack of in-depth knowledge often prevents them from making informed purchasing decisions. On the other hand, brands grapple with initiating a sustainable transition, deciding on the proper certifications for a comprehensive approach, and effectively communicating their achievements without confusing consumers.

A common criticism the certification landscape faces is the perception that many certifications do not go far enough or lack precision. While painting ideal and concise impact scenarios is crucial, an equally pressing concern is encouraging more brands to embark on their sustainable journey.

Over the past seven years, industry professionals spanning textile manufacturing, compliance management, and environmental protection have collaborated to address these challenges. The collective goal has been to develop an international fashion standard that not only supports brands in initiating their sustainable transition but also follows a holistic approach, covering environmental, social, and consumer health aspects. The result of this collaborative effort is SANE Standard.

SANE: A Holistic Fashion Certification

SANE emerges as a comprehensive fashion standard, standing proudly as a member of the United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network. This network serves as a platform showcasing initiatives that accelerate the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals. SANE certification covers textiles, accessories, footwear, and home textiles, offering a comprehensive approach that scrutinizes various life cycle phases of a product.

What distinguishes SANE from other certifications is its extensive scope. Unlike certifications that concentrate on specific aspects, such as sustainable textile processing or minimum natural fibers, SANE extends its focus beyond the typical boundaries. The standard places particular emphasis on the choice of low-impact materials covering all material types, the chemical content of final products, the environmental footprint of processing stages, and the working conditions, including fair remuneration for workers.

Ensuring compliance with SANE's criteria requires production facilities to undergo certification by an accredited third-party audit. However, the industry acknowledges the growing audit fatigue, and SANE takes a pragmatic approach by accepting existing credible sustainability standards to avoid unnecessary duplication.

Making Sustainability Achievable and Affordable

SANE's multifaceted approach ensures that crucial aspects are covered as practically as possible. While maintaining high standards, SANE remains achievable for brands, allowing them to kickstart their sustainable transition with a single product or capsule collection before tackling their entire product range. Significantly, the standard aligns with the EU Green Claims Directive, reflecting its forward-thinking approach towards the future of fashion certifications in Europe.

What makes SANE particularly appealing for small and medium-sized companies is its cost structure. Brands pay based on production volume, eliminating the need for a substantial upfront investment. This approach enables brands to gradually expand their sustainable product range and increase their certifications without imposing financial burdens.

Consumer Empowerment through SANE

The impact of SANE extends beyond the industry to the end consumers. By having one certification covering a more extensive scope, SANE simplifies the communication of brands' sustainable transitions. But what does this certification mean for consumers themselves?

Consumers gain the ability to make more confident and informed purchasing decisions. A simple scan of the QR code associated with SANE provides a glimpse into where and how their preferred brand sources and produces its products. The standard empowers consumers to align their choices with their values, enabling them to choose products actively developed by brands working towards a sustainable transition.

Whether displayed on hang tags or stitched onto products, SANE's characteristic logo serves as a symbol of assurance. It signifies products produced with equal consideration for the environment, workers' rights, and consumers' health, setting a new benchmark for sustainability in the textile and fashion industry.

A Comprehensive Vision for a Sustainable Future

In a world where sustainability is not just a buzzword but a necessity, certifications like SANE emerge as beacons of hope. They address the challenges faced by both consumers and brands, offering a roadmap towards a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.

The intricate web of certifications can be daunting, but the presence of standards like SANE makes the journey more navigable. By focusing on a holistic approach that considers environmental, social, and consumer health aspects, SANE sets itself apart. Its acceptance of existing credible sustainability standards reflects a collaborative spirit, acknowledging the collective efforts needed to drive change.

SANE's commitment to making sustainability achievable and affordable underscores its pragmatic approach. By allowing brands to gradually integrate sustainable practices into their operations without imposing financial constraints, SANE paves the way for a more inclusive and accessible sustainable fashion landscape.

As consumers become increasingly conscious of their purchasing decisions, the power of certifications in guiding choices cannot be underestimated. SANE's role in empowering consumers to make informed decisions by providing transparency into sourcing and production practices signifies a transformative shift towards a more mindful and ethical consumer culture.

In conclusion, certifications like SANE Standard embody the transformative potential of the fashion industry. They are not merely stamps of approval but a commitment to a sustainable future. As more brands embrace such certifications and consumers actively support these initiatives, the fashion industry is taking significant strides toward a future where style and sustainability coexist harmoniously.

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A Guide to Spotting High-Quality Clothing

There is no denying that clothes play a significant role in our everyday life. Aside from their more practical function of shielding our bodies from the elements, they provide a way of expressing ourselves and boosting our mood, as they accompany us everywhere we go. 

That's why choosing the right ones can have such a significant impact. After all, we all know that sporting an outfit that feels nice and looks nice can be an easy way to make us feel on top of the world. To get that mood boost, it's essential that the clothes we wear not only match your style but are high quality too. Pieces that rip and pull as we are out and about can be a real headache. 

Nothing feels better than clothes that follow our movements and are friendly to our bodies and the Earth. Low-quality garments can have a shorter lifespan and need more care and attention on your part to stay wearable. 

We have created this guide to help you choose clothes that will stay in your closet and look sharp for a long time. Keep on reading to find out how to spot high-quality clothing.  

image: Spruce Crafts

Check out the seams

The seams get under pressure when you put on clothes, wash them, and take them off. After all, garments aside from knitwear are essentially made of pieces of fabric cut and sewn together, and seams keep them together.  

So what characterizes a well-made seam? Hardier seams tend to have more frequent stitches in opposition to loose stitches. The latter can make a seam more prone to coming undone, shortening your garment's lifespan. Neat, flat, mess-free seams are a sign of good quality.    

A lack of a visible raw edge is a sign of thoughtfulness as well. Let's take French seams, for example. With their enclosed seam allowance, choosing them is a great way to keep the edges soft, making pieces more wearable for those bothered by harsher textures. 

Here is a little extra tip for all the thrifters out there. In lower-quality clothes, armpit seams can more easily rip because of harsher washing and overall traction. If you have eyed a second-hand piece in good conditions with weak armpit seams, you may look at a not-so-good quality garment. 

Higher quality materials often mean higher quality clothes 

For manufacturers to make beautiful, high-quality, and long-lasting clothes, they need to work in a safe environment, be given enough time to create and rest and be provided with quality, sturdy materials. To maximize profit, many fashion companies do not comply with these requirements, and the quality of their products is affected. 

Using cheaper synthetic materials like polyester or unspecified fabrics murkily labeled as "other" is usually a sign that saving on fabrics is the clothing company's priority instead of quality, longevity, and the planet.

On the other hand, using natural, organic, and eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and Tencel is a positive sign. Generally, a company that cares about their workers' well-being and the environment is likelier to make good quality clothes as their quality and longevity are closely linked. 

Look out for “unintentional” sheerness

If you have spent any time in a location with a hot climate or a hot season, then you know how helpful it can be to have a good selection of thin, breezy clothing to get through balmy days. 

Not all sheer clothes are made to keep the wearer feeling fresh in the warm weather. A low thread count may indicate poor quality in winter clothes and pieces made for transitional weather. 

As the sheerness may also be just an intentional aesthetic choice of the designer, try to see if it is specifically mentioned in the product description and if other pieces from that brand have a higher thread count. 

Commonly, high-quality fabrics, which are the building blocks of high-quality clothes, tend to be more tightly knit. This characteristic gives them a denser appearance and heavier feel, which allows them to fall beautifully on your body when worn.   

P.S. Keep in mind that, regardless of whether or not the sheerness of the piece is intentional, thin garments tend to be higher maintenance, so wash them and handle them carefully to keep them looking and feeling their best on you for as long as possible. 

Don't forget to check out the tags 

If you are someone who is trying to lower their individual impact and support good businesses, chances are you are an avid reader of tags, product descriptions, and ingredients lists. After all, as buyers, it is only reasonable for us to want to know more about what we are purchasing, and the people who do business ethically won't have a problem being transparent. 

So checking clothing tags out is a smart move and can be a good habit to build. A simple tag will tell you how much information the company is comfortable sharing with you. Plus, if you read the signs, it may also let you know how much thought and care went into making that garment. 

Let's go through a brief checklist, shall we? Let's start with the tag's material. Did the company state anywhere what its fabric is? Is the tag soft, or does it feel scratchy and rough against your skin? Transparency and care for the customers' comfort and well-being are both positive signs. 

The tag's function is to give you essential information about the product and how to take care of it. Were you provided all the info you might need, or did the fashion company leave you in the dark? Adding extra buttons, or maybe even additional thread, can signify that the piece was designed with longevity in mind, making repairing it much easier for you. 

Trust your body 

The sizing of ready-to-wear clothes can be confusing and often downright absurd. Two people who wear the same clothing size may have completely different body proportions. It can be hard, especially when shopping online, to figure out if a specific piece of clothing will fit and feel good on our bodies. The result is that many of us have purchased and worn clothes that, despite technically being our size, were incredibly ill-fitting. 

These accidents result from whack sizing but also poor cut, poor choice of fabric, and poor fit. A garment in your size should give you enough room to breathe properly and move around. If the fabric pulls or the garment constricts your body, it may be a sign of poor quality.       

Sometimes stiffness can be expected, like in the case of brand new, non-stretchy jeans. Still, high-quality, thoughtfully designed clothes are made to accommodate the proportions of various body types. So trust your body when choosing well-made clothes: it can be a tremendous compass!   

image: WVN *this is an affiliate link - we only show brands we truly love!

The print trick 

Beautifully-designed prints have the power of making a garment feel extra special, giving even simpler pieces that wow factor. Aside from their clearer aesthetic function of providing oomph to clothing, prints can also be used to help you figure out how much a fashion company is willing to invest into making high-quality clothes. 

In many cases, the fabrics embellished with prints can be pricier for fashion companies to purchase. Therefore, printed garments are often lower quality and more poorly made than those coming in a solid color as companies try to balance out the print's cost. 

So if you find a print garment that doesn't present a needlessly thin or loosely knit fabric, doesn't have twisted seams, and its pattern does match up at the seams, then you are in luck. Because chances are that this piece is not only specifically high-quality, but it's more likely that the brand is committed to making quality garments as a whole.  

 Don't get fooled by the price

This advice may seem like a no-brainer to some, but it's vital to remember that high quality doesn't always have a high price and vice-versa. As a lot goes into making and selling clothing, many factors determine the price of a garment, so the quality level of its materials and the time that went into manufacturing aren’t the sole determiners.   

If a company overcharges, you may end up paying for a mediocre-quality garment more than it is worth. Conversely, you can still get good-quality clothes for reasonable prices. Regardless of your clothing budget, know that there can be discrepancies between a garment's quality and cost. 

So pay more attention to the looks and feel of the piece you are looking at when trying to determine its quality level, rather than just basing your decision on its price tag, as you may find a better quality piece for the same price. 

By buying well-made clothes, you save yourself time and money, and it's also an exercise of mindfulness that can help you develop your personal style and avoid impulse buying. Ultimately, learning what makes a high-quality garment can also give you a better understanding of how clothes are made and a deeper appreciation for the talented, skilled people that make the pieces we love.     

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About the Author:

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.

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Image: Svala

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Cork & Sustainability

When I think cork, I think wine, and I bet it’s not just me. But have you ever thought of cork outside of working it out of your way to enjoy a nice glass of red? Have you thought of where it goes after you finish that bottle? Or where it comes from? It turns out cork is actually *super* cool and equally as sustainable. This natural material is a powerhouse, a master of all trades, an overachiever. So, pop that cork and pour yourself a glass, and settle in for a little lesson on what cork has done for humanity.

What is Cork?

First of all, we gotta know what cork is, exactly. Cork is an extremely versatile, naturally occurring material that actually comes from a tree, specifically the outer bark of a mature cork oak. These cork oak forests, which are commonly found in theMediterranean, are important parts of the economic and environmental ecosystems they exist within. According to Amorim Cork Composites, “over 200 animal species and 135 plant species find ideal conditions for survival in the cork oak forest.” In addition to supporting such a biodiverse environment, the cork oak forests also absorb large amounts of carbon dioxide and protect against soil erosion and fire hazards since it’s such a low-combustible material. 

Portugal, which hosts the largest amount of cork oak forests in the world and is responsible for half of the world’s cork production, has hundreds of companies that are directly linked to the forests. There are a plethora of ways these businesses rely on the cork oak forest, whether they are in charge of harvesting, storing, processing, or using the cork, or working with other aspects of the forest, like ecotourism. These forests have been creating and sustaining thousands of jobs for people for many, many years. 

How is cork made?

So how exactly does cork go from tree bark to a wine cork? It’s quite fascinating, actually. The outer layer of bark is stripped multiple times over the course of decades, and each time a layer is removed, a different cork product is created. The first removal results in “virgin cork” and only occurs after the tree has fully matured, which takes about 25 years. The second stripping results in “secunderia cork”. These two products are then used in a variety of ways, from insulation for housing to items in the fashion industry. Finally, after nearly fifty years, the third removal results in the highest quality of cork, “amadia cork” which you’re most familiar with as wine stoppers.  

Each harvest occurs every nine years or so during the spring to summer months, when the tree is experiencing the most growth. A cork tree is never cut down during harvest, so harvesting during its growth season ensures that the tree isn’t harmed, so it can continue maturing and producing cork for years to come. As we, as a society, are increasingly searching for sustainable alternatives, it’s important to look at the whole picture of how these products are created and how they play different roles within our lives.

What can cork do (or is the better question, what *can’t* it do?)

Cork works wonders at insulating due to the tiny bits of air within each cell. And we’re not just talking about typical insulation like you would think of in a home. Cork has gone to *space*, insulating rockets and spaceships since the 1960s! It’s also used for acoustic and thermal insulation and vibration absorption all across the construction industry - from flooring to boats to railways to skyscrapers. 

The air in each cell also lends elasticity to the material that others lack, which makes it extremely lightweight but also durable and able to withstand high amounts of pressure and temperature. This durability can help it extend the life of other machines, like car engines and electrical power plants; technology that mixes cork with other materials, like rubber, has led to massive improvements across multiple industries. Its superstar composition doesn't stop there; because of cork’s non-absorptive properties, it is mold-resistant and hypo-allergenic, which means it can stand the test of time since it doesn’t deteriorate as quickly as other materials.  

On the other side of the coin, cork is also consumer-friendly! Yoga blocks, chairs, fruit bowls, wallpaper, shoes - cork can do it all! We also consume cork products when watching movies, believe it or not! Props made of cork are lightweight and easy to move around or, you know, blow up in action scenes!This natural material is taking the consumer industry by storm as more and more people recognize that its versatility doesn’t sacrifice its sustainability. 

Why cork deserves to be in your life (and probably already is!)

Cork is an incredibly sustainable product in and of itself. In addition to that, it can also benefit your health and home. Since it’s a non-absorptive, hypoallergenic, heat/fire-resistant material, it can bring peace of mind into your home. Installing cork flooring or insulation in your home could not only benefit the environment but end up protecting you and your property for much longer than other alternatives.

On a lighter note, although there hasn’t been extensive research done, studies have found that cork wine-stoppers have imparted antioxidant benefits into wine. Cheers to that, and hopefully some more research!

Around your house, cork should always be welcome and easy to incorporate. It’s biodegradable, recyclable, and backyard-compostable. A triple threat, if you will! If you’re looking to recycle your cork within the U.S.A., check out ReCORK’s website. Along with tons of info about cork, they also have cork recycling locations available to search.

Since it is such a versatile product, cork can be used in a multitude of different ways in your daily life. You could wake up and walk along your cork insulated floors. You could slip on your sneakers with cork insoles. You could grab your cork wristlet on your way out the door. You could drive to the market and have your car engine being supported by cork. You could pick up a bottle of wine with a cork that supports cork farmers in Portugal. You could go to a yoga mat and use your cork mat and cork roller. Then head home and not need to turn on your heater/a/c because your walls are more temperature regulated due to the cork insulation. You could pour yourself a glass of wine and not even consciously think about how incorporated cork already is in your life-What a subtle little sustainable powerhouse. 

So cork is awesome, but is it too good to be true? Is there something we haven’t told you that will ruin cork forever? Short answer: no. Pinch yourself all you want; cork is cool! And for anyone worrying about the cork oak trees, wondering if they should just be left to their own devices, they actually are able to help their surrounding environment more after each harvesting process. According to a 2005 study by Luis Gil that Tiny Eco Home Life covered, it was “found that a harvested cork oak tree absorbs three to five times more CO2 than one that is not harvested.” And to repeat this very important fact: cork oak trees are NOT cut down to harvest the cork. Most trees live over 300 years, providing for people and the planet the whole time.

As this product becomes more and more popular with the trend toward sustainable alternatives, it will be increasingly easy to incorporate this super product into your daily life. 

Our Favorite Sustainable Cork brands & products

Svala

This sustainable handbag brand uses cork to create totes, backpacks, purses, and wallets. You may be relatively familiar with their Pinatex (pineapple leather) handbags we showcase on Sustainably Chic, and their cork products are just as lovely and of high quality. What we love about a cork handbag is that it can literally go with any outfit. It’s that perfect neutral color.

EarthHero

This sustainable online marketplace is home to several cork products. You can find cork yoga mats (like the one pictured here), pens for the office, desk mats, coasters, and even cork massage balls. It’s great to have one place to go to find many different sustainable cork products under one roof, so be sure to check it out from time to time to see if anything new has been added!

Made Trade

Another wonderful stop to make for all things cork. Made Trade is one of the best destinations for sustainable fashion and home decor. You can easily shop your values, and their aesthetic is worth checking out. We’ve linked up the cork products for you, and they have a ton for you to choose from. These adorable recycled bamboo storage jars are just one of the exciting cork products!

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Conclusion

I’m so glad that I stopped for a moment and thought past the wine stopper. That curiosity about cork has been sated, and in its place rests a deep appreciation for this natural product and all it’s done and will do in the future. Mother Nature really thinks of everything, doesn’t she?

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Paige Annelayne is a freelance writer and digital media specialist currently based in Alabama, who loves to cook, learn about intersectional sustainability, and read a lot of books. Her cat, Gnocchi, her plants, and a good cup of matcha bring her joy. You can connect with Paige on Instagram @vitality.blog and at www.vtltyblog.com

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What is Viscose?

Viscose is a human-made material that’s partially synthetic, and made of trees. Sometimes it’s labelled as at least somewhat sustainable due to its woody beginnings, and other times, it’s called out as totally harmful for the planet – so how is viscose really made, and how does this process really impact the planet?

What is viscose used for?

Viscose is a fairly silky, draped fabric that is often used by brands seeking a cheaper version of animal-derived silk. In the realm of fashion, it’s common to see it in women’s blouses, skirts, and flowing dresses, and even making up partially synthetic velvet. 

It’s considered a lightweight and breathable material that maintains shape, is absorbent, soft and dye-fast. This makes it fabric that is widely used when it comes to printed fabrics and summer collections.

What is viscose made of?

Viscose is a cellulose material – like Tencel – meaning it is made from wood pulp. In the case of viscose, this ‘wood’ is from beech, pine, and eucalyptus trees much of the time, but it can also be made of bamboo and even soy or sugarcane.

One of the reasons Tencel is great is because of one particularly unsustainable aspect of viscose production: old-growth forest logging. Canopy, an organization dedicated to protecting forests, has found that for the production of viscose and rayon (essentially the same material), more than 200 million trees are logged each year. If these trees were placed end to end, they would circle our planet seven times! 

While Tencel uses wood from certified sustainably managed sources, this is too often not the case for viscose. Less than 20% of the world’s ancient forests remain in intact tracts large enough to maintain critical biological diversity. Yet, forests in Indonesia, Canada’s Boreal and temperate rainforests, and the Amazon are being logged for fast and even luxury fashion. In fact, it’s estimated that 30% of viscose and rayon used in fashion is made from endangered and ancient forests which once were home to native plants and animals. 

If fashion brands and people wearing viscose don’t know where the raw material behind it (the wood) is coming from, sadly, it may be from destroyed endangered forestry.

How is viscose normally made?

Once trees have been cut down, they are chopped into small pieces before being dissolved into a pulp. This is where viscose becomes semi-synthetic, as this is a very chemical-heavy process. Sodium hydroxide, carbon disulfide, and sulphuric acid are all used in this process and are all considered toxic.

Sodium hydroxide is highly irritating and corrosive, resulting in severe burns and permanent damage when it comes in contact with human tissue, including the eyes, which can also be permanently harmed and impaired due to exposure. In the case of carbon disulphide, evidence has suggested that exposure to this chemical by factory workers – as well as people living near viscose production facilities – can cause coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions and even cancer. Meanwhile, sulphuric acid can cause severe skin burns, irritate the nose and throat, burn eyes, possibly cause blindness and difficulty breathing when inhaled by workers. 

These toxic chemicals – amongst others – are used together in order to dissolve the wood chips into pulp, clean and bleach the pulp, and treat the pulp so that the solution, known as ‘viscose’, is produced. This viscose solution is then run through a spinneret, a machine that creates filaments or fibers. Finally, this cellulosic fiber can be spun into yarn and then made into fabrics used in fashion. 

This chemical process can lead not only to poor health outcomes for workers, but often, to significant air and water pollution. Air emissions around viscose manufacturing facilities often include sulfur, nitrous oxide, carbon, disulfide, and hydrogen sulfide. 

Can viscose ever be made sustainably?

While viscose is biodegradable, meaning it won’t pile up in landfill for thousands of years like polyester or another completely synthetic fabric, this alone doesn’t mean that it is sustainable. Deforestation and chemical pollution are serious issues, and the process of making viscose can also be highly water intensive – from the watering of growing trees to the significant water requirements during processing. 

Fortunately, there are other ways to make viscose that are more sustainable. These processes are more expensive, so brands need to make clear commitments to prioritise the environment over profit, should they choose them. Since there’s no fashion if there’s no planet Earth, this should be an easy decision!

The previously mentioned Canopy non-profit produces an annual CanopyStyle report, which lays out the newest innovations and next-generation fibers in the textile space, that should allow us all to keep in line with set sustainability targets.

Certified Safer Logging

A great question to ask brands using viscose, is ‘where did the raw material come from?’. If brands can’t answer this for you, and if they can’t assure that the sourcing was responsible, according to a third-party accreditation, this is a real concern.

CanopyStyle offers brands plenty of information as to how they can source viscose responsibly. Brands that are a part of the CanopyStyle certification and program are also audited to ensure that ancient and endangered forests are protected from destruction. These better materials are considered ‘green-shirt’ rated.

Responsible, Closed-Loop Processing

Lenzing, the company that creates Tencel in a closed-loop system, also makes Ecovero, a viscose material derived from ‘certified renewable wood sources using an eco-responsible production process by meeting high environmental standards’.

Awarded the EU Ecolabel, Ecovero is manufactured with up to 50% fewer emissions and water impact than generic viscose. Importantly, Ecovero is also produced in a closed-loop, meaning that no harmful gases are released into the environment and are instead recovered, converted, and reused as raw materials.

Ecovero is made in a highly transparent supply chain, so brands can offer all the information that people deserve to know, about how this material was made, where, and from what.

Next-Generation Fibers, Made From Old Material

In order to combat deforestation, we cannot only rely on ‘sustainable sourcing’ of wood, from non-protected trees and forestry. We need to use less new raw materials in general. Fortunately, we don’t need to cut down so many trees in order to keep on making clothing.

Our current fashion system is one built upon overproduction, overconsumption, and waste. Because of this, more than an enormous 25 million tonnes of cotton and viscose textile waste is generated annually around the world. While we also need to slow down how we produce and consume, today, we can make use of this waste by creating viscose that is, at the very least, partially recycled. 

In fact, Canopy states that ‘all 6.5 million tonnes of viscose being produced this year could be made using only 25% of the world’s wasted and discarded cotton and viscose fabrics, thereby saving forests, reducing municipal and industrial waste to landfills, and reducing carbon emissions, energy, and water use.’ What an opportunity!

Brands using more sustainable viscose

There are plenty of brands working with both Canopy and Lenzing to ensure their viscose is more sustainable, and free from harm to precious biodiversity. Here are some of our favourites, that also ensure ethical production, when it comes to the people making their clothes.

Eileen Fisher

A trailblazing brand when it comes to transparency and ethics, Eileen Fisher has a collection of viscose and rayon styles that are largely sourced from responsibly managed, legally harvested forests. What’s more, the brand is supporting the research and development of recycled cellulose materials. The offerings from this brand, in cellulosic materials, include cardigans, pullovers, dresses, t-shirts, comfortable pants, and even velvet tops, dresses and jackets.

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Stella McCartney

This brand, famous for its animal-friendly refusal to use animal skins, is also committed to being a ‘zero-deforestation brand’. Since 2017, all viscose in Stella McCartney’s ready-to-wear collection has been from sustainably managed and certified forests in Sweden. Stella McCartney offers up a range of dresses, shorts, shirts, jackets, pants and co-ord suits in their more sustainable viscose material.

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Brava Fabrics

Showcased in our brand features this past Spring, Brava Fabrics creates beautiful patterns and colors on Ecovero shirts, pants, and skirts.

They ethically produce everything close to home in Spain and Portugal.

Brava Fabrics believe in fairness & transparency throughout the entire supply chain, so they keep a close relationship with all of their tailors.

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Amour Vert

Another great sustainable brand using Ecovero for lovely, vibrant prints and designs!

This brand uses a lot of sustainable fabrics like TENCEL, Organic Cotton, & Hemp - and it’s great to see a few Ecovero pieces thrown into the mix.

Amour Vert makes 97% of their clothing right here in the US, and their packaging is eco-friendly & compostable.

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Tamga Designs

TAMGA offers beautiful feminine clothing with colorful & vibrant designs. Whether you’re lounging around the house in one of their silky soft robes or headed out to a party in one of their evening dresses, you’ll love the way their fabrics and designs feel and look.

Everything is made ethically in Indonesia from sustainable materials like TENCEL, EcoVero, and French Linen.

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About the Author
Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human & human animals, as well as the planet, before profit & production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.

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