Posts in Fabrics & Certifications
What Is Spinnova Fabric and Is it Sustainable?
 

Image: Spinnova

If you haven't heard of Spinnova fabric, you're missing out. This relatively new textile is the first of its kind to use a unique material and a special manufacturing process to create an ultra-sustainable product. 

What Is Spinnova Fabric?

Spinnova is a cellulosic fiber, meaning it's made from cellulose — a substance located in plant cell walls. It's naturally white, fluffy and firm, with a similar elasticity and breathability to cotton or wool. A Finnish textile company under the same name came up with and patented the idea. Due to its material type, it's also likely nonallergenic and safe for sensitive skin. 

Juha Salmela, the company's chief technology officer (CTO), came up with the idea for Spinnova after watching an evolutionary biologist talk about how alike spider silk and nanocellulose — nano-structured cellulose — are. What if wood could be spun into textile fiber like a spider spins its web? After over a decade, he had his answer. 

Although the idea for Spinnova popped into existence in 2009 and the company was established in 2015, Woodspin — its first commercial-scale production facility — didn't open until 2023. On one hand, this invention is still relatively new and unproven. On the other, it took just over a decade for a concept to overcome the mass-market hurdle, which is impressive. 

Spinnova estimates its fiber could replace 4% of the global cotton supply — a market worth over $47.7 billion — by 2033. The demand for sustainable clothing is still somewhat niche, so its success isn't guaranteed. However, the lightning-fast progress in recent years is a promising sign of what's to come. 

Image: Spinnova

What Is Spinnova Fabric Made Of?

As Salmela's idea would suggest, spin nova is made from wood pulp. It's only sourced from Scandinavian trees certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), an international nonprofit that promotes responsible forestry. The company produces all its fabric at its Woodspin manufacturing facility in Jyväskylä, Finland. 

Technically, you could make this type of yarn from any agricultural residual — stalks, stems or leaves left over after harvests — or waste pulp. The company's manufacturing process works on any cellulose-based material, so there's potential for it to branch out in the future. However, it mainly uses trees for now since they're the easiest to source. 

Image: Spinnova

How Is Spinnova Fabric Made?

Many modern textiles are chemically treated. Eco-unfriendly chemicals are used during soaking, dyeing, bleaching orcoating to make fabric stain-resistant, water-repellant, wrinkle-proof or anti-static. Spinnova is different — it mechanically treats the fibers instead.

Spinnova uses a proprietary mechanical manufacturing process to make its fibers. You might think that sounds complex, but it basically means it has a patented machine that separates and refines the cellulose instead of treating it with or dissolving it in chemicals. 

Once the machine mechanically shears and treats the wood, it becomes microfibrillated cellulose, a paste-like material. The machine strips the outer layers, exposing the fibril bundles — microscopic cellulose fibers — to prepare the raw material for the next step. 

After that, the pulp flows through high-pressure nozzles, rotating the fibrils to align them. The goal is to transform the paste-like substance into a textile fiber. At this stage, workers collect and dry the fibers so they can be spun into yarn — and you can eventually wear them. 

Is Spinnova Fabric Sustainable? 

While natural fibers like cotton and wool are far more sustainable than synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, their manufacturing process often requires harmful chemicals or resource-intensive production. For example, growing cotton requires a great deal of water and pesticides. Spinnova is different. 

This fabric is one of the most sustainable in the world. For starters, all the wood pulp used to make the cellulosic fiber comes from trees certified by the FSC. Plus, the company replants what it uses so it can keep removing greenhouse gases from the atmosphere. Unlike petroleum or plastics, the forests passively absorb carbon dioxide (CO2). 

Since the fabric is made from wood pulp — not plastics like synthetic textiles — it's 100% biodegradable, recyclable and compostable. In other words, it's zero-waste. You can recover or reuse Spinnova-based clothing instead of tossing it, helping reduce greenhouse gas emissions and combat climate change. 

Could you imagine throwing your sweater into your compost bin instead of donating it to a nearby thrift store? It might seem far-fetched, but it's a reality. This closed-loop method conveniently solves the longstanding issue of excess waste the clothing and fast fashion industries suffer from. 

Even the manufacturing process is sustainable. The company uses renewable energy, no harsh chemicals and a minimal amount of water. In fact, it uses 99% less water than conventional cotton production — a good comparison, considering it looks and feels similar. 

Unlike other fabrics that wear down when reused and must be blended with synthetics to be wearable, recycled Spinnova is better than the original. It retains its quality and strength, so it doesn't need to become an eco-unfriendly blend. Best of all, wearing upcycled fabric helps you shrink your carbon footprint. 

What About the Company?

Spinnova is a super sustainable company. According to an interview with Salmela, its carbon footprint is 1.28 kilograms of CO2 equivalent (CO2e) per kilogram of fiber. For comparison, conventional cotton production produces 4.6 kg CO2e per kg on average, which is 72% higher. 

Intriguingly, its carbon handprint — the measurement of its broader resource use and energy efficiency — is negative 6.5 kg CO2e per kg of fiber. How could it possibly be below zero? The only byproducts of the manufacturing process are heat and evaporated water, which are reused elsewhere.  

The company recycles the evaporated water in the production process and locally recycles the heat waste in the local district heating network. This closed-loop method keeps it from generating further greenhouse gas emissions. 

Its other sustainable efforts — like using renewable energy and replanting trees — contribute to lowering its carbon footprint and handprint, ultimately making it negative. How many clothing companies you buy from can say they're climate-positive? It's nice to know buying something would make you feel optimistic instead of giving you a guilty conscience.

Since Spinnova's namesake fabric is its only commercial invention, it can focus on making a truly sustainable product. Plus, since it only has one facility in Finland, it can oversee all operations to ensure workers and machines are performing as sustainably as possible. 

So, What's the Catch?

While Spinnova seems to be ultra-sustainable, there's one catch. The largest wood pulp producer in the world partially owns Woodspin. Suzano — which produced over 10.9 million tons of pulp in 2023, nearly double that of its closest competitor — owns 50% of the facility and provides the trees for production. 

Suzano has faced complaints of deforestation and eco-unfriendly practices. According to data from the United States Securities and Exchange Commission, it faced 262 possible environmental and civil proceedings in 2023. Some of the accusations include pesticide use, pollution and illegal land-grabbing. 

What's worse, Suzano grows eucalyptus trees to turn into wood pulp, which seemingly harms the environment. Its monoculture approach — continuously growing a single crop in one place — steals vital nutrients and groundwater from surrounding areas, withering other plants. Just the idea is enough to put a bad taste in your mouth.

It makes sense that a startup like Spinnova would be thrilled to partner with such a large, well-established wood pulp producer when it was starting. Besides, all the trees it uses are FSC-certified, meaning they're responsibly farmed. However, just because you understand the reasoning doesn't mean you have to agree with it. 

Even though Woodspin is climate-positive and its fabric is recyclable, compostable and biodegradable, you'd be right to find its partnership with Suzano disconcerting. After all, thinking something is good for the planet only to realize it might be tinged by greenwashing isn't a great feeling. 

Image: Halti

Where Can You Get Spinnova Fabric?

Although the partnership with Suzano isn't a good look, Spinnova is still one of the most sustainable textile companies around. If you're interested in checking it out, you're in luck — it's already partnered with some huge name brands you probably recognize.

Halti 

Halti is a Nordic outdoor brand. Its unisex parka jacket, made of organic cotton and Spinnova fiber, won Finland's most sustainable product award in 2023. Voters praised its comfort, design and durability. 

Adidas

Sportswear brand Adidas took an interest in wood-based fabric after deciding to become more sustainable. It agreed to subscribe for $3.65 worth of shares in the company's initial public offering. Apparently, it wants to secure a significant amount of the fiber. So far, it has debuted a hoodie made of an organic cotton and Spinnova blend. 

The North Face

Spinnova's partnership with The North Face aims to set the outdoor brand apart from its competitors while reducing the textile industry's impact on the environment. It wants to provide sustainable, high-performance clothing for people like you. 

A Functional, Earth-Friendly Fabric  

Spinnova might not be perfect, but can you think of a textile company that is? For now, this Finnish company is one of the most sustainable. Although there aren't many wood-based clothes out there yet, you'd be smart to keep an eye out to see how this novel invention impacts the industry — and the planet.


About the Author

Mia Barnes is a health and beauty writer with a passion for sustainable living and wellness. Mia is also the Founder and Editor-in-Chief of Body+Mind Magazine, an online publication that covers healthy and eco-friendly living. Follow Mia and Body+Mind on Twitter and LinkedIn


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12 Sustainable Vegan Leather Alternatives You Need to Know in 2024
 

Image: Svala

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Sustainable Vegan Leathers

As a textile enthusiast, I get very excited about writing posts like these. I am fascinated by the innovation that goes into creating new sustainable fabrics. It's amazing how some of the fibers listed here can be derived from unexpected sources like apples and pineapples.

Why Vegan Leather?

Animal-derived leather production has been linked to several ethical and environmental issues, including animal exploitation and slaughter, deforestation, inefficient land use, biodiversity destruction, significant greenhouse gas emissions, tannery pollution and worker’s rights issues across the supply chain. Before discussing leather alternatives, it is important to understand why there is a need for alternative materials. According to industry data, a Brazilian leather handbag can result in as much as 1,000 square meters of once biodiverse land being cleared for production. Similarly, a cow skin leather bag of the same size can have a carbon equivalent footprint of over 100kg and a water footprint of over 17,100 liters. While leather has been used for centuries to make shoes, bags, and clothes, the fashion industry is now evolving beyond animal-derived materials.

We also made a conscious decision to exclude some of the plastic alternatives like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU), which are sometimes marketed as sustainable because they are vegan. While PU is better than PVC, it's still plastic and does not last long. Some of the leathers mentioned below may contain a small amount of PU, but we still believe that they represent a significant step in the right direction. We want to emphasize that nothing is perfect, but these textiles are quite exciting!

Our Favorite Vegan Leather Alternatives:

Image: Veerah Apple Peel Heels (use code SUSTAINABLYCHIC10 for 10% off your entire purchase)

1. Apple Leather

Apple leather is a type of bio-based material that is made using apple by-products from the juice industry. When apples are pressed to create juice, the leftover apple pomace and peels contain a high amount of cellulose content, which makes them ideal for producing new fabrics.

To make apple leather, the apple pomace is reduced to a powder and then combined with a synthetic material called polyurethane. This process results in a soft and durable material that has a much lower environmental impact compared to cowhide leather.

Apple leather is commonly used to make shoes and small accessories like wallets or handbags.


2. Cactus Leather

Cacti are incredible plants that have many benefits for the environment. They help to regenerate soil, prevent soil erosion and desertification, and even absorb carbon dioxide. But did you know that cacti can also be used to create sustainable fabrics? In Mexico, a type of cactus leather is being developed using the Opuntia Cactus, also known as Nopal. The process is sustainable and no cacti are harmed in the making of this leather. Only mature leaves are harvested, and cacti require very little water to grow, making artificial irrigation and pesticides unnecessary. After the leaves are harvested, they are mashed and dried for several days before being mixed with non-toxic chemicals and attached to a backing.

Brands Using Cactus Leather: Allégorie, Poppy Barley and Lo & Sons


3. Cork Leather

Cork is one of the most popular vegan leathers available today. Although not all cork products are of the same quality, many eco-friendly brands source their cork from Portugal, which is known for producing high-quality cork. Interestingly, a cork oak tree can produce up to 18 harvests of bark during its lifetime, which makes it a renewable material. This harvesting process does not disrupt the tree's natural lifecycle. Cork leather is not only recyclable, but also lightweight, water-resistant, and durable. Additionally, it can be easily dyed, cut, and sewn, which allows for a wide variety of products to be made using this material.


4. Leaf Leather

Leaf leather is one of the most affordable types of vegan leather available. Although it doesn't possess the traditional leather appearance, it does have a unique, natural look to it which is hard to replicate in fashion. This type of leather is made from sustainably harvested Teak leaves which are all fallen, so no trees are harmed. The leaves are soaked, dyed, and arranged flat before being set out to dry and mended with cotton fabric. Beautiful colors can be achieved with leaf leather, ranging from green to red to beige to purple. To strengthen the fabric for sewing, a thin BOPP film is used, which is non-toxic.


5. Mango Leather

Did you know that over 30% of mangos are wasted during harvesting and transportation, while another 7% can be wasted in supermarkets? Allégorie has partnered with supermarkets to collect discarded mangos, which are then shredded into a smoothie-like substance and processed into sheets using eco-friendly methods. The material is transformed into a leather-like substance using a water-based PU as a binding agent. After being colored and waterproofed, Mango Leather looks incredibly similar to conventional leather. It's amazing how this innovative process can repurpose unwanted fruit and provide a sustainable alternative to traditional leather!


6. Pineapple Leather

Pineapple leather, or Piñatex, is an innovative natural textile made from pineapple leaf fiber, which is an agricultural waste product. When pineapples are harvested, their leaves are collected and the long fibers are extracted using specialized machines. These fibers are then washed, purified, and processed to remove impurities. The remaining fluffy pineapple leaf fiber is mixed with a corn-based polylactic acid and transformed into a non-woven mesh called Piñafelt. To make it even more durable and waterproof, the Piñafelt is colored using GOTS-certified pigments and coated with a resin made of polyurethane.

Piñatex has been adopted by over 1,000 brands, including Nae & Svala, and the company that creates it, Ananas Anam, is a certified B Corporation.


7. Mirum

MIRUM is a revolutionary material that closely resembles leather but is entirely plastic-free. It is certified by the USDA’s biopreferred program to be made of 100% bio-content and does not use any plastic in its production. MIRUM is made entirely of natural materials that can be recycled once the material has reached the end of its life as a bag, shoe, or belt. The material is created using abundant plant matter and upcycled agricultural side streams instead of primary products, similar to how Piñatex uses pineapple plant leaves rather than the fruit itself. This process makes the material environmentally friendly, efficient, and renewable.


8. Vegea

Vegea, which is also known as wine leather, is a unique fabric made from leftover grape skins, vegetable oils, and natural fibers from the agroindustry. It is estimated that for every 10 liters of wine produced, 2.5 liters of waste are generated. However, this waste can be upcycled into one square meter of wine leather! To produce Vegea, the grape marc (which consists of grape skins, stalks, and seeds) must first be dried. After this step, it is combined with vegetable oil and water-based polyurethane to create a bio-based material that is coated into a fabric. The production process does not involve any toxic chemicals, dangerous solvents, or heavy metals, making it safe and eco-friendly.


Here are a few vegan leathers that are very exciting, but unfortunately, have not gained a lot of popularity among sustainable brands, yet. We’re sure we will find many brands using these options in the near future!

  • Biofabricated Leather: These leathers are just absolutely fascinating, and created in a lab. Learn all about these incredible textiles at Modern Meadow.

  • Coconut Leather: Durable, Compostable, Water Resistant, Moldable & Flexible, Range of Thicknesses. Created by Malai

  • Coffee Leather: Over 99% of coffee goes to waste, so why not do something useful with all the leftovers (besides body scrubs)? Created by Alice Genberg

  • Mushroom Leather: We hear a lot of buzz around this one! It’s probably the one we’re most interested in getting our hands on, but it’s almost impossible. Created by Bolt Threads

Do you have a favorite vegan leather product you use?

We would love to hear all about in the comments below!


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What is Cupro Fabric? And is it Sustainable?
 

Image: Amour Vert

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What is Cupro Fabric?

Cupro – the versatile and luxurious fabric that's making waves in the sustainable fashion world! If you're curious about what cupro is, how it's made, and its impact on the environment, you've come to the right place.

So what exactly is cupro? Well, think of it as a cousin to rayon and silk, known for its silky texture and ability to drape nicely. But what sets cupro apart is its unique production process, which involves recycling cotton linter – a byproduct of the cotton industry.

We’ll dive deeper into the history and manufacturing process of cupro in this blog, and uncover some of the sustainability challenges associated with cupro production and why it might not always be the most eco-friendly choice.

A brief history of cupro

Cupro has a foggy history with lots of different claims as to where and when it was first created. Many people claim that production of cuprammonium rayon for textiles started in 1899 in the Vereinigte Glanzstoff Fabriken AG in Oberbruch, Germany, but that it was an improvement by J. P. Bemberg AG in 1904 that made the artificial silk a product comparable to real silk.

Initially used for industrial purposes such as electrical insulation, cupro found its way into the fashion industry during World War I when silk supplies were scarce. Its luxurious feel and silk-like drape made it a popular choice for clothing, particularly in the production of linings, lingerie, and lightweight garments. 

Throughout the 20th century, cupro became a staple in fashion, valued for its versatility and comfort. As it is derived from a natural fiber, similar to TENCEL Lyocell and viscose, it has been widely adopted by sustainable fashion brands. 

The science behind the material

Cupro, short for cuprammonium rayon, is derived from natural cellulose fibers found in cotton linter, a byproduct of the cotton industry. The process of creating cupro involves several chemical treatments to transform these cellulose fibers into a textile.

First, the cotton linter is dissolved in a cuprammonium solution, typically composed of copper oxide and ammonia. This solution breaks down the cellulose fibers, forming a viscous liquid known as viscose.

Next, the viscose solution is extruded through spinnerets into a coagulating bath, usually containing sulfuric acid or a similar acidic solution. This bath solidifies the viscose into continuous filaments, which are then washed to remove any residual chemicals.

Finally, the filaments are stretched, dried, and processed into fibers, which can be spun into yarns and woven or knitted into fabric. The resulting cupro fabric is a popular choice for clothing that needs to drape like dresses, skirts and blouses.

Is cupro sustainable?

While it is derived from natural cellulose fibers, cupro's sustainability is a topic of debate due to its manufacturing process and the concerns associated with the environmental impacts. 

On the one hand, cupro utilizes a waste product of cotton production and therefore helps to reduce the overall waste of the cotton industry. It is also a good alternative to silk for vegans as silk requires the breeding and killing of silkworms. 

However, the chemicals used to create cupro include copper oxide, ammonia, and caustic soda. These can be harmful to the textile workers who handle the production and also pose a threat to the environment as they can pollute waterways if the wastewater from production is not responsibly managed. Additionally, the coagulating bath often contains sulfuric acid, a highly corrosive substance that poses risks to both human health and ecosystems.

Cupro production involves significant water usage and energy consumption, which contributes to its overall carbon footprint. While cupro is biodegradable and can be considered a renewable resource, its sustainability is undermined by the chemical-intensive production process and the resulting environmental impacts. As a result, there is growing interest in developing more eco-friendly methods to cupro production.

Cupro is now solely manufactured in Japan by Bemberg, who have since developed a closed-loop system for the material, meaning that any chemicals are extracted and reused multiple times. Bemberg has said “We strictly control the chemical substances used in the manufacturing process and have introduced a closed-loop production system that recovers and reuses copper and ammonia,”. This is a good step forward and you can find out more information on how they make cupro on Bemberg’s information page.

If you’re considering buying clothing made with cupro, it’s worth checking out where they get their cupro from and what it’s blended with. You can also find similar materials like TENCEL Lyocell and recycled satin that make great alternatives to silk.

Image: Anemos

Five sustainable fashion brands using cupro

Amour Vert

Amour Vert offers sustainable fashion with a chic flair. Their clothing line includes timeless pieces made from eco-friendly materials, ranging from classic tees to elegant dresses. Known for their commitment to sustainability, each piece is designed to be both stylish and environmentally conscious, appealing to the modern, eco-conscious consumer. Amour Vert offers a range of clothing made with cottonseed cupro, including blouses, jackets and dresses.

Whimsy + Row

Whimsy + Row embodies effortless California cool with their collection of laid-back yet modern clothing. From breezy dresses to versatile jumpsuits, their designs are characterized by their relaxed silhouettes and sustainable fabrics. Known for their commitment to ethical production, they offer fashion-forward pieces perfect for everyday wear. Whimsy + Row use a Tencel-cupro blend in a range of dresses, skirts and pants.

Anemos

Anemos specializes in luxurious resort wear that exudes elegance and sophistication. Their collection features flowy maxi dresses, tailored separates, and chic swimwear, all crafted from high-quality fabrics. Known for their attention to detail and minimalist designs, Anemos offers the epitome of refined vacation attire for the modern eco-traveller. Anemos source their cupro from Japan and their linen and stretch cupro from Turkey, and have a range of cupro-based clothing including dresses, shorts and tops. 

Altar

Altar is synonymous with edgy, alternative fashion that pushes boundaries. Their clothing line includes statement-making pieces such as graphic tees, bold prints, and avant-garde accessories. Known for their rebellious spirit and unique aesthetic, Altar caters to those who dare to stand out and express themselves through their style. From kaftans and jumpsuits to their basic cropped tees, Altar uses their deadstock cupro to create bold yet simple pieces that will last a lifetime.

LA Relaxed

LA Relaxed captures the essence of laid-back Los Angeles style with their collection of effortlessly cool clothing. From cozy loungewear to versatile basics, their designs prioritize comfort without compromising on style. Known for their soft, sustainable fabrics and relaxed fits, LA Relaxed offers wardrobe staples perfect for the modern urban dweller. They use a Lyocell (eucalyptus) based cupro weave in a couple of their dresses that are perfect for warm summer evenings. 


Caring for your clothes

Maintaining and caring for your cupro clothing can help extend the life cycle of your item and avoid it having to be thrown away. There are a few things you can do to look after your clothes made with cupro that can help keep them as smooth and silky as the day you found it!

It’s worth thinking of caring for cupro in a similar way that you would if it were made of silk, as it’s a very similar fabric and requires a certain level of gentle care that other materials don’t always call for. When washing your cupro items, if you can hand wash in cold water with a gentle soap, that works best for this material, and avoid rubbing or wringing out the item. Then you can lay the item flat to dry and reshape while still damp if needed. You can also air dry outside or on a drying rack. You can iron cupro at a low or medium temperature but make sure you iron on the reverse side to avoid the material becoming shiny.

If your item is particularly delicate, such as dresses or blouses, you may opt for eco-friendly dry cleaners that can help the item keep its shape and avoid damage during the cleaning process. 

Looking after your clothes in general is a great way to avoid wear and tear and help your items last as long as possible. Here are some other tips to keep your garments fresher for longer:

  • Read the care labels: Always check the care labels on your clothing for specific washing instructions. Different fabrics require different treatments.

  • Sort clothes before washing: Separate darks from lights and delicate fabrics from sturdier ones to prevent color bleeding and damage.

  • Wash in cold water: Using cold water helps preserve colors and prevents shrinkage, especially for delicate garments.

  • Use gentle detergents: Opt for mild, eco-friendly detergents to prevent harsh chemicals from damaging fabrics.

  • Turn clothes inside out: This protects the outer surface of clothes from friction and fading during washing.

  • Air dry when possible: Hang clothes to air dry instead of using the dryer, which can cause shrinkage and damage fibers.

  • Store clothes properly: Fold knitwear and delicate items instead of hanging them to maintain their shape. Use padded hangers for structured garments.

  • Avoid overwashing: Washing clothes too frequently can cause them to wear out faster. Spot clean when possible and air out clothes between wears.

  • Mend and repair: Fix small tears, loose buttons, and loose threads promptly to prevent further damage.


About the Author

Sarah King is a freelance writer with a focus on vegan fashion, sustainability and ethically made clothes. She campaigns for change in the fashion industry through her blog and on her Instagram page.


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What is Fleece? (& its Sustainable Alternatives)
 

A Guide to Fleece Fabric

As we become more aware of the impacts the fashion industry has on the environment, we are starting to understand the importance of making smarter choices when it comes to shopping for clothes. Whether it’s reducing the amount of clothes we buy or opting to avoid certain materials, there are plenty of ways we can make a difference to our own fashion footprint, as well as inspiring others around us.

First things first, what exactly is fleece? Well, it's that irresistibly soft, lightweight fabric that feels like a warm hug on a chilly day. You will often see jackets, sweatshirts and gilets made from fleece, but it can also be used as lining in outerwear. In this blog, we'll uncover the fascinating history behind this versatile material, tracing its roots from humble beginnings in outdoor gear, to its widespread use in today's fashion industry. 

But it's not all sunshine and rainbows in the world of fleece. Despite its popularity, there's a dark side to this fabric. We are shining a light on the environmental impact of fleece production, exploring why it's considered unsustainable and what steps we can take to minimize our footprint.

But fear not! There are alternatives out there, and we'll be exploring those too. From eco-friendly fabrics to innovative alternatives, we'll help you discover new ways to stay warm and cozy without harming the planet.

A brief history of fleece

Fleece, as we know it today, traces its origins back to the late 1970s when Malden Mills, a textile company in Massachusetts, developed the first synthetic fleece fabric called Polartec. Originally designed as a lightweight and insulating material for outdoor apparel, Polartec fleece quickly became popular for its warmth, softness, and moisture-wicking properties. It aims to mimic the natural ‘fleece’ coat on a sheep, keeping the cold and rain away from the body.

Initially, fleece was primarily used in performance gear for outdoor activities like hiking, skiing, and camping. However, its comfort and practicality soon caught the eye of the fashion industry. By the 1980s, fleece had made its way into mainstream fashion, becoming a staple in casual wear and sportswear alike.

The 1990s saw a surge in fleece popularity, with brands like Patagonia and The North Face incorporating it into their collections. Fleece jackets, vests, and pullovers became must-have items, not only for their functionality but also for their fashion appeal. Today, fleece remains a beloved material in both outdoor and fashion circles, symbolizing comfort, versatility, and style. 

The science behind the material

Fleece is a synthetic fabric typically made from a type of polyester called polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or other synthetic fibers. The manufacturing process begins with the melting of polyester pellets, which are then extruded through a ‘spinneret’ to create long, thin fibers.

These fibers are then stretched and cooled to form a continuous strand. Next, the strand is cut into shorter lengths and brushed to create a fluffy texture, mimicking the look and feel of natural fleece. This brushing process helps to trap air within the fibers, resulting in a material that is lightweight, insulating, and soft to the touch.

Chemicals are used during various stages of production to achieve desired properties such as moisture-wicking, flame resistance, or anti-static properties. Overall, the science behind fleece involves a combination of materials, machinery, and chemistry to create a versatile and comfortable fabric suitable for a wide range of clothing.

Why is fleece unsustainable? (and what sustainable alternatives are out there?)

Firstly, fleece is primarily made from polyester, a synthetic fiber derived from crude oil, a non-renewable resource. The extraction and processing of crude oil contribute to environmental degradation and greenhouse gas emissions.

The production of fleece often involves the use of chemicals such as dyes, finishes, and flame retardants, which can be harmful to both the environment and human health. These chemicals may leach into waterways during manufacturing or release hazardous pollutants when disposed of improperly.

Additionally, one of the most pressing concerns is the shedding of microplastics during washing. When fleece garments are laundered, tiny plastic fibers break off and enter wastewater, ending up in rivers, oceans, and, eventually, our drinking water. Again, these microplastics not only harm marine life but also pose potential risks to human health as they accumulate in the food chain.

In essence, the production and disposal of fleece contributes to pollution, resource depletion, and ecosystem degradation, highlighting the urgent need for more sustainable alternatives to this comfy fabric. 

If you’re looking for fleece-style clothing but keen to avoid the ones that damage the environment, there are more sustainable alternatives out there. Here are a few options to choose from:

  • Recycled-fleece (remember that even though the fibers are made from recycled plastic, they will still release microplastics in the wash so don’t wash until you need to and use a Guppyfriend or similar to catch the microfibres)

  • Recycled-wool fleece

  • Organic hemp

  • Organic or recycled cotton

  • Bamboo

Five brands using sustainable alternatives to fleece

Patagonia

Known for its commitment to environmental sustainability, Patagonia is the go-to brand for adventurers and eco-conscious consumers alike and sells a wide range of outdoor apparel, including jackets, fleeces, and activewear. They have a wide range of fleece jackets and vests made from recycled fleece and also use a low-impact dye process that reduces the use of dyestuffs, energy and water compared to conventional heather dyeing methods.

Mate the Label

Mate the Label specializes in timeless, comfortable basics made from organic and sustainable materials like organic cotton and hemp. Known for its laid-back California vibe and minimalist aesthetic, Mate the Label offers wardrobe staples that are as stylish as they are eco-friendly. In their collection of fleece zip hoodies, sweatshirts, sweatpants and shorts, they use an organic cotton fleece that is insanely soft and cozy. Plus they are made without any harmful chemicals, such as pesticides, BPA, PFAS, and formaldehyde.

tentree

Tentree specializes in sustainable fashion, offering a variety of clothing from cozy sweaters to stylish activewear. Their clothing is made from eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester and they are known for their commitment to planting ten trees for every item sold. In their collection of fleece jackets, jumpers and hoodies, Tentree uses REPREVE® recycled polyester and also TreeFleece, made with a combination of organic cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel Lyocell.

Pangaia

Pangaia focuses on innovative, planet-friendly fashion solutions, offering a range of clothing made from materials like seaweed fiber and recycled plastics. Known for its vibrant colors and minimalist designs, Pangaia is a favorite among fashion-forward individuals who care about sustainability. Their select range of fleece jackets use a combination of recycled wool and Lyocell to create a soft and warm material that contains zero plastic.

Ecoalf

Ecoalf is a pioneer in sustainable fashion, creating stylish clothing and accessories from recycled materials such as plastic bottles and fishing nets. With a focus on urban streetwear and outdoor gear, B-Corp company Ecoalf combines fashion with a commitment to cleaning up the planet. As part of this commitment, Ecoalf have developed their Chicago polar fleece jacket (available in light gray or black) made with a recycled nylon that reduces microplastic release by 58.8% compared to a conventional polar fleece.

Caring for your clothes

If you already own fleece clothing there are a few ways you can look after your item and prolong its lifespan. Firstly, try to avoid washing the item unless you really have to. We’ve often been made to feel that it’s normal or even advised to wash our clothes after each use, but that’s only the case for underwear or dirty clothes that really need it. Items such as jackets, coats and trousers should only be washed when absolutely necessary. In between these washes, you can do things like hanging the item outdoors or near a window to freshen it up, or even lightly mist with an antibacterial clothing spray.

When you do wash your fleece item, if you can use a Guppyfriend or an installed microfibres filter in your washer, this can help to catch the microplastic fibers that are shed during the wash cycle. Wash at a cool temperature (ideally 30 degrees or less), opt for a gentle cycle, use a mild detergent and avoid softeners as these can actually strip the softness of your fleece over time. If you can line dry your fleece clothing that’s great, if not try to hang on a hanger inside or drying rack - avoid the tumble dryer at all costs!

Looking after your clothes in general is a great way to avoid wear and tear and help your items last as long as possible. Here are some other tips to keep your garments fresher for longer:

  • Read the care labels: Always check the care labels on your clothing for specific washing instructions. Different fabrics require different treatments.

  • Sort clothes before washing: Separate darks from lights and delicate fabrics from sturdier ones to prevent color bleeding and damage.

  • Wash in cold water: Using cold water helps preserve colors and prevents shrinkage, especially for delicate garments.

  • Use gentle detergents: Opt for mild, eco-friendly detergents to prevent harsh chemicals from damaging fabrics.

  • Turn clothes inside out: This protects the outer surface of clothes from friction and fading during washing.

  • Air dry when possible: Hang clothes to air dry instead of using the dryer, which can cause shrinkage and damage fibers.

  • Store clothes properly: Fold knitwear and delicate items instead of hanging them to maintain their shape. Use padded hangers for structured garments.

  • Avoid overwashing: Washing clothes too frequently can cause them to wear out faster. Spot clean when possible and air out clothes between wears.

  • Mend and repair: Fix small tears, loose buttons, and loose threads promptly to prevent further damage.


About the Author

Sarah King is a freelance writer with a focus on vegan fashion, sustainability and ethically made clothes. She campaigns for change in the fashion industry through her blog and on her Instagram page.


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How To Sew Your Own Clothes: A List of Resources To Help You Learn
 

How To Get Started Sewing Your Own Clothing

Quitting or cutting down on fast fashion might be challenging when it seems so ubiquitous, yet with the right tools and resources, one can make some, if not all, of the clothes they need.    

Sewing our clothes is undoubtedly not the only way to create a sustainable wardrobe. Still, it's the perfect pastime to channel our creativity in a sustainable, practical, and fun way. Many people were taught how to sew as kids by family members and family friends, but it can seem as daunting as it is exciting for those who have to learn how to sew as adults.    

Luckily, as in many other instances, the internet can come in handy for learning a manual skill such as sewing with tutorials, courses, and more for all skill levels. Fans of a more traditional learning approach shouldn't get discouraged either, as there are some great, helpful books on the topic. 

We have compiled a list of valuable, accessible, and paid resources to help you start this exciting journey, familiarize yourself with the needle and thread, and level it up until you can make the garments of your dreams. With these resources, some time, dedication, and practice, your home-made clothes are on the horizon. Let's get sewing!   

Image: Seamwork

The online sewing courses and classes 

Seamwork

If you or a loved one are looking to learn how to sew clothing, the United States-based Certified B Corp. Seamwork is the perfect place to empower oneself to go from beginner to someone who can design and make clothes that fit them body-wise and style-wise. 

"Learn to Sew Clothing" is Seamwork's straight-to-the-point, practical paid class for absolute beginners to sewing, providing them with the proper framework to feel empowered rather than intimated by sewing. It teaches its students about fabrics, how to use a sewing machine, and sewing patterns with the help of video modules, a workbook, a sewing dictionary, and much more. 

Seamwork's most popular members-only course is their "Design Your Wardrobe" course, which includes videos, community access, a planner, and a workbook, and it's taught by the founder of Seamwork, Sarai Mitnick. 

This course aims to make your sewing fit you and your fashion goals and taste, get strategic about your sewing, and avoid the most common pitfalls hobbyist tailors often find themselves stuck in without access to the right resources. 

To those looking forward to making specific pieces to add to their closet, they also offer premium sew-alongs that walk you through the crafting process step-by-step and help you get the suitable fabric and fit with their adjustment tutorials. 

In addition to their paid courses and patterns, they offer many free info and resources: anything from patterns and sew-along videos to sewing tips and inspo. You can find this accessible, easy-to-follow content across their website, YouTubeInstagram, and Podcast

Made to Sew

Home-made doesn't have to mean poorly made. On the contrary, they can look and feel as good as the ones you buy from regular clothing companies. If you agree and want to make your home-made clothing look professional and sleek, Made to Sew offers the perfect assets to achieve this goal. 

Founded by the London College of Fashion graduate fashion designer and sewing educator Aneka Truman, Made to Sew offers sewing expertise to people at all levels of their sewing journey. From those taking their first steps into the world of sewing to those who wish to level up their skills.  

The Made to Sew free tutorials on their YouTube channel teach viewers the essential elements of sewing, like what machine needles to use and how to wind a bobbin, and all sorts of valuable techniques, like how to sew a French dart and how patterns match fabric for garments. 

On Made to Sew, you can also find paid memberships to learn more about sewing, get familiar with pattern amendments, get support with sewing techniques, access a live stream database, and join a community of sewing lovers. 

The Made to Sew Academy, which is free to join and gives access to the "Made to Sew" professional sewing, dressmaking, and tailoring classes, is also available via an app, which makes learning how to sew or level up one's sewing much more manageable. 

Made to Sew offers the perfect information for those who want to learn how to sew independently and go beyond sew-along videos to make clothes that fit well and look professional. 

Patterns and sew-alongs 

Rosery Apparel

If you are a beginner sewist looking for easy, fun sew-alongs, Rosery Apparel's YouTube channel is the perfect place for you. The sew-alongs with Janelle, the founder of Australia-based Rosery Apparel, are beginner-friendly, and the clothes you will get at the end are versatile, easy to wear, and easy to style, especially with each other as the garments featured on Rosery Apparel have a cohesive aesthetic that makes building fully you-made outfits intuitive.    

On Rosery Apparel's website, you can also find the digital and paper patterns of some of the garments featured on the business's YT channel, which makes these projects more beginner-friendly as having both written and video instructions makes replicating the garments at home even more straightforward. 

Friday Pattern Company

Founded in 2017, the US-based indie sewing pattern company Friday Pattern Company offers versatile, functional sewing patterns that are minimal, easy to follow, and fun to sew. They offer printed and pdf patterns as well as pattern bundles. On the company's YT channel, you can also find sew-alongs of patterns from Friday Pattern Company's shop, which makes following them at home more beginner-friendly. 

These are available online on the Friday Pattern Company's website and other specialized e-shops, but you can also find their products in local fabric and sew shops across the globe. If you are in the market for fun sewing patterns, you might be able to find some from Friday Pattern Company in your area.  

The sewing books and e-books 

"You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book" by Juliet Uzor

As the title implies, the goal of this short, informative book by London-based teacher, author, DIY content creator, and winner of the 2019 Great British Sewing Bee in 2019 Juliet Uzor is to teach its readers the essential, fundamental skills of sewing they need to make their first home-made garments. 

Through "You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book," the skills and techniques you'll learn, like how to employ a sewing machine, how to make measurements properly, and how to use a pattern, won't just stay abstract notions in your head, but instead, you'll get the chance to put to use straight away.  

In addition to the needed info to start sewing clothes at home, the book, in fact, also includes 15 sewing projects with the required patterns to make a wide array of clothes and accessories, like a versatile camisole and a tiered skirt. Projects like these are the perfect occasion for a beginner to try their hand at projects employing a variety of fabric weights and typologies. 

This book isn't just for those who want to make new garments from scratch but also for those who wish to learn how to sew to spruce up the clothes they already own or rework old garments into new fashion pieces. 

That's because "You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book" also includes some fun projects that teach you how to upcycle second-hand and vintage garments, like turning a pair of old jeans into a tote bag or an oversized shirt into a gathered skirt.    

Sew It Yourself with Diy Daisy by Daisy Braid

Australian author, self-taught sewist, and content creator Daisy Braid's "Sew It Yourself with Diy Daisy" is a great sewing book for makers at all learning stages who wish to make their fun, versatile, and comfortable clothing at home. It has all the info a beginner needs to familiarise themselves with sewing. Sewing equipment, core techniques, and sewing materials won't be a mystery anymore.   

With that info, beginners and more advanced learners can tackle the book's twenty pattern-free, infinitely customizable projects. That is because these projects include clear step-by-step instructions with plenty of illustrations and pictures. No guesswork is involved here; you'll know what to do!  

In addition to the easy-to-follow instructions, this book's sewing projects have another plus: you can effortlessly adapt them to your body and fit preferences. The book's ten more complex clothing projects don't follow standard sizing. Instead, the makers should use their body measurements when making their one-of-a-kind home-made garments, making Daisy Braid's book the perfect read for a size-inclusive introduction to sewing. Plus, the garments feature no buttons or zips, which improves their chances of better weathering size fluctuations and makes them easier to create.         

If you are uncomfortable making clothes just yet, "Sew It Yourself with Diy Daisy" 's ten small accessory projects are just what you might need to dip your toes into sewing without committing to more time-consuming, more challenging projects. 


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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